Winemaker James MacPhail (MacPhail Family Wines and Sequana Vineyards) grew up in San Rafael, in a family with wide-ranging interests in both Marin and Sonoma County. “My mom’s side of the family were third-generation dairy farmers in Petaluma, so I received an early education in farming and agriculture and quickly absorbed their love of the land,” he says. “On my father’s side, I grew up in the family business, McPhail’s, which has been a few different Marin and Sonoma businesses since 1884 (and is currently the fifth largest propane supplier in the two counties). With such a long history here in the North Bay, it was hard not to be interested in wine, which combined many elements I found fascinating—farming, the need to be a steward of the land, the ability to share the fruits of your labor and really become part of so many wonderful life experiences. There aren’t many ways to combine work and pleasure with such certainty.”
These days, he calls Healdsburg home. “For a Pinot Noir winemaker, it’s living in paradise,” he says. “But it’s more than that. The sense of community, the sharing among friends and support for each other all make Healdsburg a wonderful place to raise a family.”
What did you do professionally before you started your own business?
After college and before 1995, I had a short, three-year stint in the hotel business; my last management position was at the Park Hyatt in San Francisco. I quickly learned I liked staying in hotels and not working in them. I was also missing creativity, the outdoors, the land and using my hands. I then worked in numerous aspects of the wine industry for seven years prior to launching MacPhail Family Wines in 2002—tasting room, cellar rat, vineyard worker for six months, director of sales and marketing, director of operations, lab analyst, assistant winemaker—you name it, I did it.
How long have you been affiliated with Hess Collection?
I was hired in the spring of 2007 to be winemaker for its new Pinot Noir-only brand, Sequana. It’s a successful partnership because Hess understands the importance of leaving the winemaking to the winemakers and not trying to dictate unrealistic expectations based on business needs. We share a common goal to produce the finest wines that we can, and bring them to market where people can enjoy them. It’s been a very good situation all around, and I was pleased to extend our relationship even further this year, bringing MacPhail Family Wines into the Hess family.
Do you have a big family?
I live by the credo that close friends are family too, so yes. My immediate family is my wife, Kerry, my two daughters, Haley and Madison, and a four-year-old Bernese mountain dog named Zuni. Most of my aunts, uncles, cousins and my sister still live in Marin County, and all remaining family lives within a few hours of here. I’m very lucky to have everyone close at hand.
What’s something people would be surprised to know about you?
I played bagpipes with the Prince Charles Pipe Band in San Francisco for many years, and we were chosen to play for the Queen of England at Davies Symphony Hall (soon after its opening) during her 1982 visit to San Francisco. I played “Amazing Grace” for her—a pretty ‘amazing’ experience.
Describe a favorite relative.
My grandmother on my dad’s side always had root beer floats handy, and she smelled like oatmeal cookies.
If you could change one thing about the world, what would it be?
I would welcome more compassion and tolerance.
If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?
I’d remember to not sweat the small stuff.
What kind of music do you listen to?
I’m pretty diverse in my musical tastes. I have a lot of old and new school discs that I’ve imported into my music library, but some faves are U2 (the early days), The Beautiful South, Young the Giant (a new band), Van Halen and Moby.
What spells adventure for you?
Traveling to someplace I’ve never been before with my family. I love being surprised by a new culture—food, music, weather and the people.
What was the biggest mistake you made starting your own business?
Not creating more of a team. I put on too many hats too quickly, and some didn’t fit so well.
What’s your dream car?
James Bond’s Aston Martin.
What’s your favorite birthday memory?
The “luau” my then-girlfriend (now wife) surprised me with. She and my daughters created a Hawaiian atmosphere at the house, complete with Elvis’ “Blue Hawaii” on the DVD player, mai tais and grass skirts—the whole nine yards. We had a blast.
If you were given a racehorse, what would you name it?
Shiny Penny for one horse, and Anything But Last for a second horse. I’d want two horses, so they could keep each other company.
What would you like to be doing five years from now?
Exactly what I’m doing today.
