Enough of bicycle bashing—despite emails running 3-to-1 in my favor, with the general opinion that it’s all the outsiders who cause the problems—and back to some interesting wine questions, like what attracts people to any given wine.
An Australian wine study of worldwide wine buying characteristics came up with some interesting facts. The number one item was packaging (46 percent): The bottle shape and style, colors and overall package readability—along with the caveat that black, gray and subtle colors were associated with higher-end wines and bright, colorful labels were associated with lower-end wines. It’s frequently said that packaging sells the first bottle; quality and taste sell the rest.
In second place was brand, or perceived image of a given brand. We can all relate to that. Just think about your own perceptions, like Gallo is always lower-end and, in days gone by, Mondavi was considered higher-end. This is only a perception and definitely not true. Gallo’s overall wines are probably of higher quality than the current Mondavi wines.
Third on the list is sensory attributes and taste, but to me, this is a moving target, since we all have different taste parameters. I dislike Pinot Noir and you love it—see what I mean? Next on the list was grape variety and, in today’s market, there’s a surprising interest in some of the newer varieties being produced. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon still remain the queen and king of the varietals in the overall market, however. Last on the list, to my surprise, was wine region. Maybe what I’ve been preaching is coming true: The proliferation of a gazillion appellations from around the country has dulled our awareness and made us realize that most are figments of egos and not really too important. A summary of the study concludes, “There’s a lot of good wine out there that doesn’t sell, either because it’s the wrong price or in a bad package.”
Price wasn’t included in the study because it’s well known to be the driving factor in our current economy and isn’t going away anytime soon. Will the $50+ bottles ever return? Some authorities say they may never come back—too many good wines for less than $20 have been discovered. Remember, price isn’t a reflection on quality, but availability.
Along with this sales info, another little tidbit that’s surfaced is that women, especially under 30, are drinking far more wine than previously realized, and the wine market itself hasn’t addressed this issue. Women, especially in more upscale areas, are drinking far more wine than anyone had thought and need to be targeted with marketing. It’s also been found that women winemakers make more delicate and subtle wines compared to the big, fruit-forward, high-alcohol wines out there. Maybe the whole industry ought to think about that so we can get away from the “Parkerism” that’s screwed up so many good wines. Wine is meant to be enjoyed with food, not to be the meal itself. But if Parker likes them, price goes up, and your palate is screwed up for a week. Ever wonder why Italian wines are so popular? They aren’t man-eaters and are enjoyed for their quality without hitting you on the head with a 2×4. Most higher-end Australian wines fit that scenario also.
Another few items that have appeared from several studies include the fact that the concept of aging wine is completely foreign to people under 40. (Can I throw in that it’s foreign to people 70 and over also? I really don’t want to be outlived by my wine cellar.) I read in one blog that, generally, wines costing more than $30 could improve with five to 10 years of aging. Aging might be good for wines, but it sure is hell on people. My version of aging is the time it takes to get from the store to the house.
While we’re on the subject of buying wines, I’d like to mention a couple things my buddy Dan Berger wrote recently about restaurant wines. (I hope this doesn’t get me on another rampage about wines and restaurant pricing.) He includes four items. First, never buy the cheapest wine since it’s probably just a draw for those who don’t really care about quality but are only price-conscious. House wine is really a dartboard. A restaurant that really cares about its customers will try to use at least a decent wine for a house wine and, at $5 or $6 per glass, it can be good. At $20 per gallon—a high price for house wine—there are 21 six-ounce glasses and, at $6 per glass, that’s $126 per gallon retail. How many retailers wish they could get away with that? How come the alcohol industry has to be the only source of profit for the restaurant industry? With house gin at $12 per 1.75 liters (about 60 ounces) and $6 per drink, that’s $360 gross—and over-pours are few and far between since the advent of computerized pourers to prevent bartender skimming. Oh, I forgot, I’ll give you another $10 to cover the tonic and the small slice of lime. (P.S. Yes, I know there’s “some” overhead.)
Second, never buy the most expensive wines. They’re only there for the guys on business expense accounts. Personally, I like being on someone else’s expense account. Third, never buy solely on brand, since all wines, even from a given winery, are not created equal. Last, if you’re familiar with wines, watch the vintage dates—restaurants won’t always change their list just for a vintage change.
My words of wisdom include: Never accept a pre-opened bottle, since you have no idea what was done to it before it reached you. Also, please don’t laugh at a young person trying to open a bottle. Everybody needs a learning curve, especially since the wine industry is so slow in going to screw tops.
OK, homework time. Besides your bottle-a-day, keep your eyes open for a couple of new products hitting the market. One is called the Better Barrel System for bars and restaurants, which allows the use of high-end wines from a dispenser that keeps wine fresh, is attractive and fits well on the bar. More about that after I get to test it. Also, Mike Draxton at Vintners Signature Wines (old Murphy-Goode Winery in Alexander Valley) has come out with a “pouch” wine series that is excellent. There are thousands of good reasons to accept this, including it’s good wine at a fair price and is extremely environmentally friendly.
