Solbar

We started with two specialty cocktails: La résistance is a light, effervescent mixture of Junipero gin, lemon juice and Mumm’s sparkling Brut Prestige. But the one that really got our attention was the persimmon nog. Based on the idea of egg nog (we visited in December), it had Bulleit bourbon, persimmon purée, ginger/black pepper syrup, a touch of cream, root beer reduction and nutmeg. Topped with thin-sliced cranberries and not too heavy or sweet, it was a great way to warm up. The cocktails, like the menu, are seasonal, and are created by bartender Michael Pazdon and Chef Sharp.

The food menu is separated into two categories: healthy, lighter dishes and hearty cuisine. We decided to try a little of each. First came a beautifully arranged and delicious root vegetable salad, which had beets (thin-sliced and served both fried and raw), carrots, turnips, sweet celery root purée, lively green rosemary pistou, sweet roasted carrot powder and some fresh greens.

The next starter was a savory Yukon gold potato gnocchi, topped with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms (they had a rich, nutty flavor), a salt-baked half-onion and crispy fried bone marrow with buerre Colbert sauce. The dish was a wonderful mix of sweet, salty and savory flavors and multiple textures.

Our first entrée was melt-in-your-mouth Loch Duart salmon (so fresh it almost tasted sweet) atop a sage-pear puree with bacon crumbled into it, buttery sautéed Bloomsdale spinach and a sharp accent of preserved chanterelle mushrooms that cut in nicely to the otherwise smooth, lush dish. It was paired with a full-bodied 2007 Londer Chardonnay (Kent Ritchie vineyard, Sonoma Coast).

Next was the Fulton Valley duck breast, served medium rare and cut into medallions. It came with an earthy, salty, crunchy duck confit spring roll; sweet, seared cippollini onions; tart, grilled treviso (Belgian endive); sweet potato purée and sour orange reduction sauce. Garnished with a fresh peeled orange slice, the tender, mildly herbaceous duck was paired with a bright, classic 2007 Calera Pinot Noir (Ryan vineyard; Mt. Harlan).

Dessert was a Meyer lemon parfait with four cloudlike layers, a cashew cookie crust and fresh fuyu persimmon and pomegranate. Next, the rich, warm chocolate brioche pudding was drizzled with Bailey’s Irish Cream custard sauce. It was more like pudding than bread in texture, and a heartwarming end to a memorable meal.