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Fork Italian-Mediterranean
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Everything about Fork is sleek. From its modern interior design to how each plate looks (like a piece of art), this place is polished. Since opening the restaurant in 2001, owners Charles Low and Oliver Knill have focused on bringing diners high-quality, fresh and exciting food. Chef Nathan Lockwood uses only local, seasonal produce in his often-changing menu, which is set up with three-, four- or five-course options.
My friend Stacy and I opted for the four-course choice, along with a split wine bottle sampler (three half-bottles). We were poured the 2004 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs Brut Sparkling first (pear and vanilla, light with a creamy finish). It went well with our first course choices.
First was an heirloom tomato salad with all sorts of shapes, sizes and colors of tomatoes, all skinned and sweet atop a very light, chilled golden jubilee soup, then sprinkled with fresh basil leaves and croutons that soaked up the flavors and added a nice crunch. Next was the smoky-sweet saba-glazed quail with house-smoked pancetta, served atop a caper risotto salad with quartered fresh figs and crispy sage. Last were Monterey sardines served with pine nuts, golden raisins, mint and charred sweet onion. The fish was lightly breaded, very fresh, not too salty, and the dish’s combination of textures and flavors balanced out wonderfully.
The second course included two pastas, which were served with a 2005 Navarro Vineyards Anderson Valley (Mendodcino) Chardonnay (toasty nose with crisp citrus and floral flavors). We first shared the Yukon gold potato gnocchi, which came with a slow-roasted pork and red kale ragu (earthy, meaty, comforting), topped with a few shavings of Parmesan cheese. Then we had the veal and porcini ravioli in a sugo with braised piopini mushrooms and a light, delicious sauce.
Our third course came with a deep, dark, magnificent 2002 Ruston Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc (peppery, dark fruit, chocolate). It went down easy with the Snake River pork loin, which had a salt and pepper rub and was served with baby mustard greens (tart and sweet), roasted figs and a peach mostardo. The pork jus was poured on top to combine all the flavors. We also had the Rogue River wild salmon with a squash blossom (stuffed with grated zucchini). Served skin-on, the fish was tender, moist and placed atop canelli, garbanzo and cranberry beans with a drizzle of a sweet lemon glaze. It went especially well with the Chardonnay.
Dessert was a chocolate hazelnut cake with praline cream and orange caramel. It was paired with a 2000 Dow’s LBV Port. Second was a vanilla semifreddo (a light custard) with a sweet white nectarine and lady fingers layered with sharlyn melon shaved into strips. A few tart, plump berries added an edge to the dish, as did a pairing with Leacock’s 5-year-old Malmsey Madeira.
