| Risibisi 154 Petaluma Blvd. North Petaluma (707) 766-7600 www.risibisirestaurant.com
Italian cuisine |
Risibisi. Even the name makes me smile. I’m thinking co-owners Marco Palmieri and chef Fabio Flagiello know how to have a good time. They opened the place in summer 2006, and their grand opening the following December featured a visit from actor Tony Shaloub (who trained with Flagiello for his role in one of my all-time favorite movies, “Big Night”). When my friend Suzie and I visited this past November, the place was packed.
Risibisi’s décor resembles an outdoor European café. Its main dining area feels warm and welcoming, while its elegantly modern details add to its lively ambiance.
We sat at a window table and ordered some cucumber cosmos from the list of signature cocktails—crisp and refreshing. After that, we switched to Italian wine by the glass to enjoy with our meal (the impressive international wine list also had several Belgian ales).
Our meal began with two appetizers. From the specials list came the guazzetto di porcini e vongole—large porcini mushrooms sautéed with white wine, garlic and olive oil with shrimp and a slice of polenta (which soaked up the flavors nicely). We also had the warm goat cheese yogurt pannacotta from the regular menu (which changes seasonally), simply because it sounded so interesting. Served with corn cakes, black truffles and a pistachio pesto, the creamy, earthy cheese made this normally sweet dish savory (lately I’ve enjoyed pannacotta for dessert). Light but absolutely packed with flavor, it was far better than we’d even hoped.
Next came our soup and salad. Suzie had the hearty and creamy wild mushroom soup, which was puréed but not entirely smooth (a good thing). I ordered the spinach salad, which had classic flavor with its baby spinach and arugula tossed with shitaki mushrooms, salty bacon, manchego cheese and balsamic dressing.
For the main course, we absolutely had to try the risi e bisi, which means risotto and peas. This particular preparation came with chiodini mushrooms, parmesean cheese and a medium-sized Maine lobster tail. A generous portion to say the least, it was rich but not overbearing, and the peas added a clean, green touch. Delicious. We also tried the grilled beef tenderloin from the specials menu, which came topped with a mound of porcini mushrooms and black truffles. It sat atop a bed of sautéed spinach and was served with French fries. Everything about it was straightforward, so each naturally complementary flavor came through.
I used to decide if I liked a restaurant based on its tiramisu. It was once a very popular dessert, but so many people flubbed it and, over time, it fell out of style. Thus I haven’t ordered it in what seems like forever. But this time, I thought, “Why not?” Served in a martini glass, Risibisi’s tiramisu didn’t have the classic layerd look, but was one of the best I’ve ever had. Flagiello’s secret (well, the one he wants to reveal—I’m sure there are more): no cream. It was dreamy.
