“Can’t repeat the past? Why of course you can!”—Jay Gatsby in “The Great Gatsby”
Boho Manor is an ideal dining destination for ‘23—that is, 1923. The Monte Rio resort and restaurant revels in a Jazz Age sensibility; it bills itself as a “Gatsby Resort Escape.” And unlike other era-focused destinations—think Fifties-themed diners—there’s nothing kitschy about Boho Manor. This is the real deal. Boho’s simply taking advantage of its early-20th-century architecture and the area’s old-school resort vibe that still lingers from a century ago when Monte Rio was a popular Russian River getaway for wealthy San Franciscans.
The manor—which today consists of 10 hotel rooms, a dining room, bar lounge, a private lounge (referred to as the Speakeasy, it’s accessible through a bookcase door) and multi-level stretch of river-facing decks—was originally built in 1906 as a private residence, before transforming into the hotel and restaurant—formerly called the River View Inn and, more recently, the Village Inn—it’s operated as for the bulk of its existence.
On our recent early-autumn visit, we sat at a corner table in the bar lounge—the cozier of the dining areas and the space that lends itself best to guests donning Gatsby-era attire, or so it seemed by how many flappers were boop-oop-a-dooping at nearby tables. (We also wore Twenties gear—2020s dress casual.)
Drink specialties reflect the old-timey focus, though guests can order anything under the sun from the expansive bar. That said, old fashioneds, martinis, daiquiris, mint juleps, et al, are given particular prestige on the menu, not to mention The Gatsby (tequila, lime and bitters), the Gin Hemingway (London Dry, egg white, bitters) or the Lavender Lily (gin, lavender, prosecco) in case one needs extra encouragement to get into the spirit.
We started with a shared plate of crab cake ($23), a savory patty with its blend of crustacean, crumbs and spices held together loosely under a sweet dollop of chutney. The plate’s accompanying salad greens proved a fitting lead in to the Caesar salad ($14), which arrived boasting an ample array of Romaine, croutons, parmesan and other classic Caesar ingredients, with a zesty Dijon-y dressing proving a highlight. The Caesar is among a handful of menu items reflective of Boho’s early-20th century mood–the salad was first introduced in 1924–with Fettuccini Alfredo ($20), lamb shank ($39) and Parmesan chicken scallopini ($26) stepping up as other familiar staples of the Lost Generation dining experience. The Boho burger ($19), pan-seared salmon ($34) and ribeye steak ($41) round out the delightfully concise menu.
The manor is offering an array of special events on weekends—live music, DJs, dancers, wine pairings, even an upcoming ice-skating aerial show are planned to further entice guests. Burlesque dancers and an aerialist entertained on the river-front deck on our visit. (Admission to special events is extra.)
If the manor feels somehow familiar to classic movie buffs, that’s because it was the setting for several scenes in the 1942 Bing Crosby film Holiday Inn, a minor hit in its day, now known for introducing the crooner’s holiday staple “White Christmas” to the world. (The connection means a bustling holiday season at Boho; reserve tables well in advance.)
Our entrees of lamb shank and ribeye arrived, kicking the savory quotient at our table up several notches. The shank boasted an ample helping of leg meat atop rosemary-garlic mashed potatoes and brown gravy—the tender lamb fell off the bone without needing much encouragement. The ribeye, meanwhile, was livened by a green peppercorn sauce and accompanied by scalloped potatoes and a serving of crispy leaks—the latter pushed this plate to the top as a highlight of a roundly excellent meal. A decadent crème brulee capped the evening on a sweet note.
After our dishes cleared, we embarked on a brief, self-guided stroll on the outside deck and down nearer the river where a chilly breeze announced the passing autumn. An aerialist spun midair through hoops and split silks while a DJ and dancers were getting the night started near a waterfront gazebo; it was like a page out of Gatsby. As Fitzgerald himself observed: “Life starts all over again when it gets crisp in the fall.” And how.
Boho Manor
20822 River Blvd., Monte Rio
707-865-2304
Bohomanor.com
Dinner, Thursday to Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.
Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to noon
Speakeasy, Friday and Saturday, 7:30 to 11 p.m. (live jazz and signature cocktails)
Bar, Thursday to Sunday, 4 to 9:30 p.m.; Monday to Wednesday, 4 to 7 p.m.
