Warm woods and white linens? Viva I'Italia!
If Marin can claim a “classic Italian restaurant,” Poggio would be it. The North Bay’s southern-most town may have derived its name from the Spanish—Saucito means “little willow”—but there’s something indelibly Italian about Otis Redding’s sunny “dock of the bay” locale. The waterfront nautical vibe, entrenched oenophilia culture and general village-y atmosphere is as Mediterranean as the North Bay gets.
Poggio certainly isn’t the only top-notch Italian restaurant in Marin—heck it’s not the only Italian restaurant in small-town Sausalito—but it might be the most definitive. Sidewalk al-fresco dining by day; warm, ambient-lighted table seating by night. An overheard buonasera! is de rigueur at Poggio.
We visited on a busy weekend evening during the holidays—greens resembling holly and poinsettia lined the walls and ceiling beams with glowing Christmas lights woven in. With such seasonal décor set against hardwood floors and traditional white table linens, the place looks especially inviting in winter.
Poggio’s wine list is extensive—its local selections favor Wine Country staples pinot and chardonnay, with a healthy smattering of Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Carneros and Napa (mostly cabs) in the mix. But Poggio’s specialty is fine Italian wine and if one wants an authentic taste, all manner of selection is available—from regional reds and whites to an ample menu of Piedmont-area nebbiolo, several from the heralded Barbaresco and Barolo zones. “When in Rome,” indeed (give or take a few hundred kilometers).
Poggio’s menu focuses on Norther Italian cuisine. Our meal started with sformatino ($15), a staple of the restaurant’s antipasti menu. Poggio’s is a cauliflower-based custard, its creamy richness enhanced by fonduta and brown butter, and flanked by grilled cauliflower and dates under shavings of grana Padano. Next, the tuna tartare ($19) was served alongside a mix of arugula, pine nuts and a horseradish crème fraiche; accompanied by slices of crisp crostini.
Poggio was established by restauranteur and Sausalito resident Larry Mindel on Bridgeway in 2003 under the historic Casa Madrona Hotel & Spa, in the heart of the downtown. Under the kitchen leadership of executive chef and partner Ben Balesteri, the restaurant has earned Bib Gourmand recognition from Michelin (2017 and 2018) and has been named among the best Italian restaurants in the Bay Area by various Bay Area publications. Despite its foot-traffic-heavy location and regional reputation, Poggio retains a neighborhood-trattoria vibe, well removed from the tourist-catering waterfront restaurants lining the north side of Bridgeway about a stone’s throw away. It’s high-end local.
For entrees, our server recommended the tajarin ($87), a house favorite pasta originated, like much of Poggio’s wine cellar, in the Piedmont region of Northwest Italy. Thin, hand-cut and egg-based, this deliciously rich pasta is served in a simple sage-butter sauce, topped by shaved white truffle, also delicacy of Piedmont. We also tried the costata, or ribeye ($53), served in red-wine jus alongside potato gratin and broccoli di Ciccio, a mildly sweet Italian varietal. Topped by peppery arugula, the oak-grilled beef was a delight, complemented perfectly by the hot-baked pan of cheesy sliced potato.
We saved room to share a decadent panna cotta ($10); the kitchen works wonders with vanilla bean custards and gelatos—everything from the crème brulee to affogato to budino al cioccolato is recommended.
Poggio translates to “knoll” or “hillside” and is a word often found on Italian wine labels, in reference to the slope or peak of the hill that enjoys the most exposure to the sun—the part of a vineyard that produces the finest grapes. The name obviously reflects the restaurant’s passion for great Italian wines, but after more than 20 years of distinction in the 415, it’s also apt for Poggio’s place at the “peak” of Italian restaurants in the North Bay. Bravo!
Poggio Trattoria
777 Bridgeway, Sausalito
415-332-7771
Poggiotrattoria.com
Breakfast, daily 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.
Lunch and dinner, Friday and Saturday, noon to 10 p.m.; Sunday to Thursday, noon to 9 p.m.
Did You Know?
Prior to founding Poggio, Larry Mindel made his name in California Italian cuisine through his Chianti in Los Angeles, Ciao and Prego restaurants in San Francisco and Il Fornaio in Corte Madera, which he transformed from a struggling bakery into a chain of acclaimed Italian restaurants. Mindel was the first American to win the Caterina de Medici medal for preservation of Italian heritage and culture outside Italy.
