A temperature-controlled cave can present ideal conditions for aging wine.
Wine caves are cool. Literally. These temperature-controlled marvels are designed to maintain ideal conditions for aging wine, no matter what’s happening outside.
Wine caves also offer a reprieve from summer’s heat for those who want a great escape.
High in the eastern hills beyond Napa is Jarvis Estate, where the entire winery operation—crush pad, production facility, bottling line, barrel storage, event space, tasting room and administrative offices—are housed in a 45,000-square-foot cave. Only the 37 acres of vineyard and guest parking are above ground.
A weekend retreat
The story of Jarvis is the story of uncompromised pursuit of excellence.
William and Leticia Jarvis purchased the 1,300-acre property (now 1,320 acres) in 1984 as a weekend retreat for their young family. There was no intention to make wine commercially, but a few small vineyards were planted for personal use.
In early years, the leftover grapes were sold to the likes of Grgich Hills, Clos du Val and Jordan, among others. But soon, enthusiasm for the fruit inspired the couple to take classes in viticulture and oenology at UC Davis. Then, William reached out to winemaking pioneer Andre Tchelistcheff.
Long story short, Andre’s son, Dmitri Tchelistcheff became the founding winemaker at Jarvis, creating the winemaking philosophy, processes and style that are still in use today.
Digging the hole
As Jarvis Estate was building its reputation as a premier Napa producer, William also set his sights on creating a one-of-a-kind facility. Construction of the cave lasted from 1991 to 1995, and the resulting structure is astounding.
In addition to the working winery, there are a few grand surprises. One, a natural spring waterfall creates an ideal level of humidity and helps regulate temperatures (and offers an amazing selfie spot). A small trickling stream runs from the feature and alongside many of the walkways.
Elsewhere in the cave, a vast hall, known as the “Crystal Chamber,” takes its name from the massive amethyst and quartz geodes that frame the space. Our footsteps and voices echo throughout the space, affirming our host’s explanation that William and Leticia once considered establishing it as an opera house (!).
The adjacent barrel storage room is, well, cavernous—big enough to hold a few hundred people. It does just that when Jarvis hosts its members for a biennial gathering that has, over the years, featured performances from Cirque du Soleil, America’s Got Talent and other large-scale productions.
And the wine
The subterranean tasting room is well-appointed, and we settle in for a six-wine journey that starts with a rich, full-bodied chardonnay and then traverses through reds (both single variety and blends). The 2019 merlot is a standout—velvety smooth with dried cherries on the palate—as is the 2019 Lake William blend, which delivers complex dark fruit and earthy notes. We finish with a deep, bold, age-worthy 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.
Everything is made from estate fruit—Jarvis does not buy or sell grapes. Production caps out at about 6,000 cases per year, total, over six varieties and three blends. The majority is allocated to club members (there’s a long waitlist), with only a small amount distributed to various states to be sold in restaurants, high-end wine shops and country clubs.
Like everything else at Jarvis, the care and attention to detail is obvious with every sip. Nuanced elements and interventions create memorable wines that are both varietally correct and also surprising and unique, much like the place itself.
Did you know?
The concentric arcs of the Jarvis logo are an artistic representation of the parabolic cave arches.
Jarvis Estate Winery
2970 Monticello Road
Napa, CA 94558
707-255-5280
