The North Bay is known for good food, wine and art. No doubt, the Mediterranean climate and pastoral setting of West Sonoma County is an invitation to relax, sip local wines, and savor a farm-to-table feast you will never forget. Located in Sebastopol, The Barlow, which includes 18 buildings and four city blocks, is a hidden gem and a whole lot of fun. A marketplace district repurposed from a canning and production site, it is a tribute to the family who successfully grew hundreds of acres of apples in the area more than 100 years ago.
In 1902, Thomas E. Barlow gave the right-of-way for the Petaluma and Santa Rosa electric railroad across his 600-acre ranch, enabling his fruit and the produce of neighboring farms to be transported south to Petaluma, where it was then ferried on steamer boats down the Petaluma River to San Francisco. Merchants located along the rail line also profited by having fresh produce to sell within a day’s time.
Sadly, in 1904, Mr. Barlow died unexpectedly from a ruptured appendix, leaving behind his wife, Laura, and six children. He was 38. The family remained steadfast, grew their business, and later established an applesauce canning facility in 1939, located in the heart of Sebastopol. Because this entrepreneurial family understood the art of working collectively for common good, their name is now indelible in the West Sonoma County city of Sebastopol. The tradition of hard work and longevity lives on today in this vibrant community.
A market space for artisans
At first glance, driving down Highway 12 toward Bodega, a passerby most likely experiences what is known as schotoma, meaning the inability to see (or hear) what is right in front of you. But, a closer glance and a drive down some of The Barlow side streets, aptly named Pink Lady, Gravenstein, and Fuji, unleashes the pleasant thought of spending an entire day exploring the eclectic shops and dining venues that line the streets.
Seven of the original warehouse buildings remain in The Barlow, while newer structures added during its redevelopment emulate the old processing and canning plant’s architectural style and design. No doubt, the shopkeepers and producers, who use natural resources in their creations, are carrying on the traditions of hard working folks like the Barlow family. Yes, sustainability is always a thing, and “made from scratch” still exists, as evidenced throughout the eclectic shops and eateries.
The industrial warehouse exteriors hold hidden treasures of beauty, passion and brilliant talent adorned with contrasting mixes of steel countertops and soft lighting, all purposefully designed. The 12-acre property houses 40 artisanal businesses in a maker-space environment that includes wineries, breweries, a distillery, flowers, organic clothing and more. Local producers of cheese, art, and baked good work, while customers watch the creations take form. A stroll along the walkways—while taking in the aromas of organic coffee, freshly baked goods, and the best pizza this side of the Pacific—will heighten anyone’s olfactory sensory memory experience. The Mediterranean climate of the North Bay allows for noshing alfresco, and there is no shortage of mouth-watering culinary delights, whether it be a juicy cheeseburger with truffle fries or an organic salad concocted with local, in-season ingredients. The Barlow is, in Bohemian terms, WEIRD, an acronym for wonderful, exciting, interesting, real and different.
Highway 12 from Santa Rosa intersects with State Route 116, also known as Gravenstein Highway. Sebastopol is a stone’s throw away from Santa Rosa and an hour’s drive from San Francisco. Barney Aldridge, founder and property manager, says, “We have noticed more Santa Rosans are willing to take a 10-minute drive as opposed to a 30-minute drive to Healdsburg or Sonoma to explore food, art and wine together. The success of our roster and tenets has far exceeded my expectations. It’s become a gathering place, which was a central piece of our mission. We wanted it to be a place where people enjoy food, art, and wine together, and we wanted The Barlow to be a Wine Country experience that was within a 10-minute drive for the people of Santa Rosa. It’s an exciting tour to walk The Barlow. It’s reminiscent of the markets of 200 years ago where you produce by hand what you sell.”
The Barlow is one-of-a-kind, featuring a mix of retail and restaurants with industrial uses. “We’ve not found a similar property,” says Aldridge. “It is unique to Sebastopol. Everyone seems to appreciate having us here. Homes listed for sale will list proximity to The Barlow. It’s not downtown; it’s an addition. The weekly farmer’s market coincides with our monthly tours. People park at The Barlow and walk to the farmer’s market, and we’re enjoying being a part of that.”
Dine and sip
In step with The Barlow’s high standards of being sustainable and local are the eclectic eateries, which are nothing less than remarkable. Sushi and sake at Koshō, while sitting at the bar chatting with the chef makes a memorable afternoon, if you don’t overdo it on the sake. (Be sure to buy the chef a drink!) Just ask what fish is in season (not what’s fresh because it is all fresh), or have some real fun and order omakase (chef’s choice). They also have a beautiful dining area and a patio if your party is more than two.
Come back the next day to The Barlow and enjoy a frou-frou drink and a smash burger at Fern Bar. They have heat lamps and twinkle lights on their patio! The drinks are artistically beautiful, and the garnishes are purposeful, healthy, and oh, so decadent—no pink umbrellas here. If you overindulge a little, hop over and grab a superfood smoothie, a cold-pressed juice, or maybe a little bone broth from The Nectary.
The fussiest adult or child will find something delicious upon which to feast. It may be a brownie-almond ice cream taco from Two Dog Night Creamery or a cup of Jo from Taylor Lane Organic Coffee. The brew master at Taylor Lane considers altitude, density, soil, harvest season and temperature as he crafts the science and art of making his organic brews. Countless hours of roasting experiments paired with tastings ensure delicious coffees for all preferences. A cappuccino from Taylor Lane on a rainy Saturday is a little slice of heaven.
The Barlow maker space environment allows customers to see the creations of Golden State Cider and grain-to-glass vodkas, gins, and whiskeys at Spirit Works. At Pax Wines, winemaking is approached holistically. Pax, (named after Pax Mahle, co-owner with his wife, Pam) uses only grapes that are grown without the use of chemicals and by crafting with as little intervention as possible. And, the tasting room is relaxed-retro-centric. LP albums line the shelf and comfortable seating area toward the back begs for some couch sitting, while sampling their Syrah.
The founders of Crooked Goat Brewing began their journey as a Friday-night hobby and became a part of The Barlow movement in 2016, crafting their distinctly West County beers at 120 Morris Street. Seismic Brewing creates fresh, high-quality beers while adhering to the Triple Bottom Line—people, planet, prosperity. Because they are located right on Sebastopol Avenue, you can’t miss them (no schotoma here), and the signage for both breweries makes them easy to spot. A cold beer begs for a cheese pairing, so slip into the British-style artisan cheesemaker world of William Cofield and watch the milk vats operating on-site. Witness the aging process all the way to the packaging and shipping area. The display case at William Cofield houses not only the shop’s products, but those of neighboring cheesemakers.
A jelly belly sandwich from The Farmer’s Wife with honey lavender bacon, apricot conserve, aged cheddar, Point Reyes original blue, and a drizzle of wildflower honey will create a culinary explosion of sweet and savory like you’ve never encountered. Enjoy comfort food with a southern twist—fried chicken, Mississippi mud pie and Shrimp n Grits— at the Blue Ridge Kitchen. Or, enjoy contemporary Mexican street food at the Barrio, where the salsas and tortillas are handmade, and the meats are grass-fed and local. Just two doors down from the Barrio sits (drumroll, please) Acre Pizza. Oh, my, my! There is something about the perfectly baked crust that is neither too thick nor too thin, and the tomato sauce delicately drips through the pepperoni as you fold and devour your first piece.
Turn the corner and check out the “Daily Offerings” at Red Bird Bakery. The grab-and-go window at The Barlow offers a delicious selection of the bakery’s creations, with a larger assortment sold at its flagship bakery in Cotati. Husband-wife baking team, Isaac and Linda Cermak, boast 35 years of combined experience creating artisanal breads and delectable pastries and desserts. Their family name, which is Czech in origin, translates to “red bird,” and their products are reminiscent of slow-food techniques from the Old World. The artistry and passion put into their European-inspired baked goods exemplify the hard work and dedication it takes to create handcrafted loaves of bread, croissants, tarts, cakes and more.
Women of The Barlow
The omnipresence of female entrepreneurship adds another notch to the coolness belt of The Barlow. Retail Row on McKinley Street hosts the talents of women designers and makers of whimsical designs of everything from screen-print sweatshirts, florals and organic clothing to contemporary art. “It feels like a sisterhood,” says the proprietor of Lori Austin Gallery. “It’s rare to find so many women-owned businesses side by side. We all feel proud and grateful to have survived floods, fires and the ongoing challenges of the pandemic. We are all super supportive of one another and often share ideas and resources.” (See “The Art World of Lori Austin” on page XX.)
Jessica Switzer Green, founder and owner of JG Switzer Fine Fibers, turns beautiful wool from locally sourced sheep farms into one-of-a-kind heirlooms for the home. Stepping into her shop is like walking into an old European fashion house. Using an industrial needle-punch machine, she places different colors of fleece on top of blank wool, which she calls “the canvas.” Next, she felts her cobalt blue, 7.5 ton 10,000 needle loom, lovingly referred to as Luna. The layers are fused into one beautiful, cohesive fabric. “We ‘paint with wool,’ using a locally farmed canvas of Dorset and Suffolk wool from Bodega and Mendocino,” says Switzer Green. “We sew most everything at The Barlow workshop to keep a close eye on quality. Our specialty is ‘Fine Fleeces and Fibers,’ and we offer unique occasion gifts and everyday items for the artful home.” Heirloom blankets and artful bedding, keepsake pieces (designed to be passed from one generation to the next) adorn the shelves and display tables of the shop. Jessica will create special orders from guilt-free “upcycled” fur from Spanish Toscana glove factory remnants, tanned formaldehyde-free and sewn together to create thick, soft, and lovely gifts. We believe “the heart can rest in an artful nest,” says Switzer Green.
At California Sister Floral Design & Supply, you will find nothing in this shop reminiscent of traditional flower arrangements. The designs created by Kathrin Green and Nichole Skalski are as whimsical and dreamy as the beautiful gifts that adorn the shop. Because they source from local growers, the flowers have a longer vase life than most imported flowers. Dahlias, heirloom garden roses, protea, anemone, and California- grown peonies abound in hand-delivered seasonal arrangements. Finding unusual gifts helps to escape the redundancy of traditional gift-giving. Check out the colorful smudge sticks wrapped in the sweet aroma of your favorite flower. A practice for thousands of years by Native American tribes, smudge sticks are now prevalent in yoga studios and homes for reducing stress and cleansing the soul. California Sister is a great place to buy a gift for that friend who has everything.
Rust Boutique, owned by personal stylist Alice Briggs, offers a concierge service as part of the shopping experience. Alice’s mission is to empower women by tapping into individual style preferences. Her collection is carefully curated, and her focus is on the buyer. The boutique offers clothing, handbags, shoes, jewelry and accessories that are carefully curated, natural, and oh, so beautiful.
Gallery 300 is devoted to the same group of artists’ evolving work, rather than be a sea of constantly changing art. Jennifer Hirshfield’s work is influenced by her universal need to connect with nature, animals and people. She has a deep understanding of color with a unique, vibrant palette. She uses many types of media in her works—from clay to high-gloss molding material and a heavy, textural application of the paint. Gallery 300 aims to be part of the local Sebastopol community, offering ongoing art demos, art shows, and events that allow visitors to touch the paintings because of various surfaces and layers of colors.
“Slow fashion” is the current movement of designing, creating and buying garments for quality and longevity. It encourages slower production schedules, fair wages, lower carbon footprints, and (ideally) zero waste. Kristen Young’s Barge North offers ethically-made clothing for women, men and children. Her garments are manufactured in the USA, and screen-print designs are created locally on the Mendocino coast using eco-friendly, water-based inks. Home goods, apothecary items, jewelry, and beautiful candles are just a few of Kristen’s designs that scream functionality, comfort, good quality and tasteful artistry.
Indigenous fair-trade fashion
Indigenous Organic + Fair Trade Fashion on McKinley Street sets the bar for ethical fashion for both men and women by going above and beyond the standard. The company works with some of the poorest regions of South America, specifically in the Highlands of Peru where textiles have been a valued commodity for more than 10 millennia. Because most of Peruvian textile creators are women, money earned from this art is more likely to go toward feeding and caring for children and families. Women can now achieve economic independence through their skills and through fair trade wages.
The purpose of the global Fairtrade Textile Standard is to guarantee workers a decent living and empowering them to combat poverty, strengthen their position, and to take more control of their lives. The requirements ensure that employers pay living wages, guarantee the right to join trade unions, and make certain that health, safety and environmental principles are adhered to.
Community Market and so much more
A thriving marketplace must have a grocer. And, what’s not to love about a one working toward building a sustainable future by educating the community about food, health, nutrition and the environment? Community Market’s motto says it all, “Food for people, not for profit.” The grocer directs profits back to the community with donations, discounts and community services, as they work toward building a more sustainable future. The market also prides itself on providing a plentiful and nutritious menu of prepared breakfast, lunch and dinner options.
The Barlow offers services, too. Blue Rose Music is an artist collective that assists in the business and creative development of musicians and projects. A portion of all revenue is donated to The Blue Rose Foundation, which provides pre-school scholarships to financially disadvantaged children. The pandemic has been catastrophic for a myriad of reasons, and 2020 was a bad hair year for all. The stylists at ReFrame Hair Gallery can rectify a bad at-home haircut or a botched color job, and make you feel brand new again. If you love The Barlow so much that you want to live in Sebastopol, Vanguard Properties will help you find the perfect home or business property.
Becoming a viable, renewable community doesn’t happen overnight. The long-term commitment and resilience of The Barlow entrepreneurs pervade as this fine group of people pursues their dreams and goals collectively. Through fires, flooding, and yes, a pandemic, this community stands together as one. Equally essential and most endearing is the culture of a kind and loyal community of people who support each other to combine individual strengths and talents. This sense of belonging extends beyond the sales counter to the patrons, and the vibe at The Barlow is downright folksy, warm and friendly. Although being profitable is important, the feel is more about belonging to a community, and the merchants love having locals frequent their shops.
Next time you’re looking for a day-trip getaway, don your comfy clothes and grab your coziest jacket as an added layer in case it turns cools. And, if you forget that layer, you can find your new favorite sweater at one of the shops. Free parking, plenty of outdoor seating, and that beautiful Sonoma climate welcomes you to The Barlow.
