A vow is a solemn promise. It’s also the inspiration behind the name of the latest dining venue in downtown Napa—AVOW—and a promise to all who dine there. “A vow to provide great food, great service and a great experience,” says Krzysztof Pawlik, general manager.
Located on Main Street, AVOW is a renovation of a historic building, known locally as Fagiani’s. Originally constructed in 1908, it was sold in 1945 to Nicolas Fagiani, the son of an Italian immigrant family, who turned it into a restaurant and bar. In 1969, ownership was passed to his daughters, Anita and Muriel, who ran the business. One night in July 1972, Anita was running the bar at closing time. It was the last time she was seen. The next morning when she was found by her sister, the building became a crime scene. The mystery of her death remained unsolved for 30 years.
Aside from its dark and storied past, this historic downtown landmark and its charming Renaissance Revival architecture inspired Joe Wagner to take a leap and acquire the property in 2016. With the help of Architectural Resources Group, BraytonHughes Design Studios and Cello & Maudru Construction, the building was transformed into a tri-level bar and restaurant. The project was a considerable endeavor, and Wagner’s mission was to transform and breathe life into the space, re-establishing its rightful place as a landmark. For Wagner, the man behind Copper Cane Wines & Provisions, the project was a labor of love. “California’s history and architectural history have been hobbies of mind for over a decade,” he says. “When the opportunity came to revamp one of Napa’s most historic buildings, I took the honor very seriously.”
Alex and I arrive on a Thursday evening, and Pawlik gives us a brief tour before we’re seated. Since it was a mild autumn evening, we opted to dine alfresco in the outdoor space constructed for the times—a massive white tent strung with lights and chandeliers that provide a warm glow. I ask Pawlik about the building’s dark history. “A little fun fact is that sometimes we hear footsteps and weird sounds,” he says. If the building is haunted, he assures us, it’s a friendly spirit. “And no whiskey goes missing,” he adds with a smile.
Our servers for the evening are Marcus Bozzini and Dani Fercho. We begin with cocktails and study the menu. AVOW offers a notable collection of spirits and whiskeys, as well as local wines and beers. Chef Martin Rivera helms the kitchen, and the menu is inclusive to everyone—meat lovers, vegetarians, and those looking for gluten-free options. It was also created to perfectly pair with Copper Cane wines.
We begin with two starters. The oysters are a popular item—fresh off the boat and taste of the sea. But if you want to mix it up, try the grilled oysters with Aleppo chile butter and herb breadcrumbs. Fun and tantalizing, they offer a little heat. We also enjoyed the mushroom calamari. A great starter to share, Rivera and crew transform oyster mushrooms into a classic crispy bar snack, served with fine herb aioli. Clearly, AVOW knows how to have fun with vegetables. This starter is true cooking magic.
For entrees, I opted for the cioppino. This tomato-based seafood stew was invented by the San Francisco Italian fishermen of North Beach in the late 1800s, using whatever seafood was leftover from the day’s catch. At AVOW, it’s an elevated take on the original with 10-day dry-aged cod, smoked cioppino broth, fennel sofrito, littleneck clams and shrimp, served with crusty bread. Rich and complex, this is a hearty, soul-satisfying bowl of food to enjoy with gusto.
Alex enjoyed the pork chop “schnitzel.” Traditionally, a schnitzel is a boneless slice of meat, usually thinned by pounding with a meat tenderizer and breaded before frying. It’s often said to hail from Germany, though others claim its roots begin in Austria, but it’s a staple in several countries throughout Europe. At AVOW, this classic dish is elevated. A double-cut 16-ounce pork chop is koji fried. (When applied to meat, koji does something amazing as its powerful enzymes slowly tenderize the meat.) This Japanese-inspired dish is served with a fermented honey-mustard sauce. And holy schnitzel—it’s a substantial meal and a celebration on a plate. It’s served with confit potatoes and fresh mustard greens that were the perfect side note and an unexpected star to a rich and delicious plate of food. At AVOW every dish is complex but executed with a light touch.
As we lingered over dinner, I couldn’t help but think that the Fagiani family would be glad to know the doors to this beloved, historic landmark are open for business once again. Next time you’re in Napa, check out this new dining venue where the past and present intersect in a modern space with a whimsical Great Gatsby-feel.
AVOW Napa
Fare: Authentic California Cuisine 
Address: 813 Main Street, Napa, Calif. 94558
Phone: (707) 203-8900
Web: avownapa.com
Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Entrees: $25—$50
[Photos courtesy of AVOW Napa]
