Left, General Manager Ed Feuchuk and Founder James Harder
Welcome to our annual “Business of Wine” issue—one of the most anticipated editions of the year. This issue focuses on some of the latest trends and approaches in the industry …and yes, what’s ringing the cash register and scoring new dollars for wineries all around the North Bay. Perhaps more importantly, these new approaches are scoring new customers as well.
Gone are the days when it was good enough for one winery’s successes to translate into an uptick in sales for the entire industry. Trading customers back and forth worked beautifully…until it didn’t. Many high-end consumers of fine wine have slowed down their purchases or decreased consumption. Today’s wine mavericks are even finding healthier approaches through an official wine industry category that is designated “no-low alcohol,” or Nolo. Consumption of no- and low-alcohol products is forecasted to grow 30% by 2024, according to a study by ISWR Drinks Market Analysis. This new category seems to be mostly driven by a new generation of consumers with a focus on health and well-being.
Sometimes passion and a daring move will lead to a successful transformation of a tried-and-true business model. Our cover story on Calistoga’s Tank Garage Winery is about disruptive innovation and founder James Harder, who was looking to do something different after years in the industry. Hip and cool, Tank is a game-changing success story.
Now for me, I’m quite settled in my opinion that crisp white wines pair perfectly with my wife’s goliath shrimp preparation. And I won’t eat a New York Strip without a bold, Cabernet Sauvignon punch-ya-right-in-the-face taste and a silky-smooth finish. I admit I’m not interested in exploring a glass of wine from both white-and-red blends like some releases at Tank. But I suppose like the wines I enjoy drinking, I’m now of a certain “vintage” myself! Tank’s secret is in its constant re-invention of how wine should be made, bottled, packaged, shared and tasted. And as you’ll read in Jane Hodges Young’s story, it’s working tremendously well at Tank Garage Winery in Calistoga.
Another trendy topic in the industry is celebrating women winemakers. Women in the industry have made incredible wines and scored well-deserved accolades for decades. I’d trash my entire collection if I could refill it with wines from Heidi Barrett, Cathy Corison and Helen Turley. While these legends were part of a small group of women years ago, things are evolving nicely. Women now make up half of all those studying viticulture and enology at UC Davis. Heck, women accounted for nearly 45% of the 2020 graduating enology class at the University of Bordeaux!
We’ve taken it up a notch in this year’s edition to feature “Winemaker Moms.” Four winemakers speak frankly about working in an industry still dominated by men and the ups and downs of managing work and family.
This month’s special report covers something of import to all of us—this nagging pandemic. We’re at the two-year mark now, and the return to normal life remains elusive. In this month’s special report, Judith Wilson reached out to our public health officers to find out where we are today, how they seek the most effective ways to keep us safe, the challenges they continue to face throughout each viral wave, and the shortcomings of our public health system. As Dr. Santora, deputy public health officer in Marin County remarked, “[The pandemic] was challenging because there wasn’t a playbook. We were constantly building the plane while flying it.” Indeed, “building the plane while flying it” is an oh-so-true characterization that remains true today.
More on literacy
On a final note, as a follow-up to last month’s column, I’m delighted to report that the “Fieri-Amaturo Literacy Project” is officially underway at six Sonoma County Middle Schools! There are now 22 participating classes engaging hundreds of 4th and 5th graders to read, read and read. Knowing that less than half of low-income families have childrens’ books in their homes, we’ve allocated thousands of dollars to purchase raffle prizes, school supplies and more books for these worthy young readers. Each student will be given credit for each book read outside of class. Each class will measure their all-student book counts. Each school will have a grand prize to celebrate its successes.
Guy and I are, needless to say, thrilled with this progress. However, we need your help to fully manifest all the benefits that a literate and engaged student can achieve through the Advanced Reader program. I hope you will consider joining us. In the meantime, stay in touch and share your thoughts at Lawrence@NorthBaybiz.com.
Until next time,
Lawrence
