Sonoma Pizza Co.

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Sonoma Pizza Co. opened last June, bringing the artisanal pizza talents of proprietors Chris Smith and Eda Atasoy to the charming Sonoma County community of Forestville, further cementing the town’s unofficial motto, “the good life,” on the taste buds of residents.

Smith boasts an extensive hospitality background, having owned multiple bars and restaurants in San Francisco (as well as prominent SF record label Om Records). Currently, he’s focusing his culinary efforts on SPC, while Eda, a graphic designer by trade, handles the website and interior design of the space.

Since doors opened last summer, SPC has continued to expand hours to lunch and dinner service along with opening a popular outdoor seating space.

I arrive on a Wednesday evening with my boyfriend, Chris, who is the primary guest for the occasion, considering his proclivities for anything pizza related. Assistant manager Ashley greets us and leads us to our table through an inviting interior of ceiling-high vertical windows, which are sure to provide warm, natural light for the lunch crowd. While SPC is normally a counter-service operation, Ashley is giving us the VIP treatment and serving us this evening.

SPC low-alcohol spritz cocktails [Photos courtesy of Sonoma Pizza Co.]
From our table,  we can see the wood-fire oven and into the kitchen where all the action is. The ambience is further mellowed by soft, funky music, apparently hand-selected by owner Smith (he’s really proud of his playlist, says Ashley).

Chris and I each start with one of their low-alcohol spritz cocktails. I choose the passion fruit and key lime-accented SPC Punch, and he gets The Good Life, with Lo-Fi Gentian Amaro and Meyer lemon. Both are delightfully refreshing, easy to drink and won’t get you too buzzed before your food arrives.

SPC also offers organic house-made sodas, and a curated collection of local wines and beers.

A variation of the SPC meatballs

From the tapas menu, our meal begins with the burrata and heirloom tomatoes over pesto Israeli couscous. The dish is visually stunning–adorned with edible flowers grown on site–and we can’t resist snapping a few photos before digging in. Each element balances the others perfectly, from the rich burrata to the fluffy couscous and sweet, juicy tomatoes. We are off to a promising start.

We pick the SPC meatballs for our next starter, and these disappear quickly. They’re a blend of beef, pork and prosciutto nestled in a most-addictive marinara sauce–we keep returning to it throughout the meal with anything dip-able.

Ashley surprises us with the sunflower seed Caesar salad, which holds its own next to the previous dishes. Topped with local micro-greens, shaved Parmesan and house-made croutons, this updated classic is a tasty and unexpected favorite of the night.

SPC places an emphasis on delivering a well-rounded, quality menu–from drinks to sides to salads, everything is crafted with intention and skill–and you could certainly have an exceptional meal here without even touching a pizza.

The Sonoma Pizza Co. menu changes with the seasons.

It’s time to pick our pies for the night, and everything sounds good—from the Margherita options on the wood-fired menu to an array of house signature pizzas. The selection has tons of variety, with unique flavor combinations and familiar favorites, too. For most of the pizzas, you can sub for a gluten-free crust, and order them vegan or vegetarian at no extra cost.

We order the Margherita Extra pizza from the wood-fired menu. This one is both my and Chris’s favorite of the night. Creamy buffalo mozzarella, a layer of fresh basil underneath the gooey cheese, soft crust with a bit of crunch–simple, and delicious.

We also opt for the Fennel Sausage, another tomato-based pizza covered with peppadew peppers and a Meyer lemon gremolata. The brightness of the lemon and pickled peppers balance the richness of the sausage, a must-try as well.

Later, upon Smith’s recommendation, we get the Carlito’s Way. This is one of the many vegetarian pizza options, with a creamy sweet corn sauce and some more of those fresh micro-greens.

Their ever-evolving menu keeps pace with the changing seasons, adjusting when and where necessary to ensure the highest quality, freshest and most closely-sourced ingredients possible.

Though the house-made ice cream floats sound enticing, we are too stuffed for dessert.

Given Smith’s restaurant pedigree across the Golden Gate, it’s not entirely surprising he and Eda have Sonoma Pizza Co. running on all cylinders so soon after opening. The ambience is cool; the staff, efficient. The food tastes as great as it looks. For a true taste of “the good life” in Forestville, a stop at Sonoma Pizza Co. is a must.

 

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