Mothers Know Best: Persistence Pays Off with Walt Ranch, Tasty Tacos

Land Trust of Napa County is in contract to purchase all 2,300 acres of Walt Ranch in the eastern hills above Napa Valley from the Hall family. Photo courtesy of Land Trust of Napa County.

My mother taught me early on—and then ad nauseum during my formative years—to never give up. Her mantra, my annoyance. But the sentiments stuck and served me well in life and work, especially in a profession where persistence is the only path to success. Even in Napa Valley, mama knows best, because it’s that same tenacity that could mark the end of the epic battle royale over the Walt Ranch development project. A proposal that has raised brows and temperatures for more than a decade, pitting angry residents and environmentalists against Kathryn and Craig Hall’s aggressive development plans for their 2,300-acre Atlas Peak parcel the couple purchased in 2005.

I first wrote about the project in 2015, when local interest groups assembled to fight the original proposal, which called for the removal of 28,000 trees to make way for 356 vineyard acres within the mega property. Over the next several years, public action committees united and waged protests at the foot, or should I say paw, of Bunny Foo Foo, the ginormous sculpture that marks the entrance of St. Helena-based Hall Winery. By 2016, a modified version of the plan emerged, which reduced vineyard acreage to 209 and decreased the removal of mature oak trees down to 14,000. That same year, the Napa County Board of Supervisors approved the Walt Ranch project despite a petition that garnered more than 6,300 signatures from residents against the project (and others of its ilk).

But the battle was far from over. In the years that followed, the Halls’ plans were challenged at every turn with continued vigilance from opposers and pressure from the Center for Biological Diversity, which delivered environmental impact reports in a quest to “Halt the Walt.”

One of the more scandalous turns came last year when it was revealed that 4^th District Supervisor Alfredo Pedroza’s family had purchased undeveloped land adjacent to Walt Ranch, and that it was Pedroza himself who helped secure a $2.7 million loan for the parcel. By this point the supervisor had already voted on items pertaining to Walt Ranch and was asked to recuse himself from the proceedings. A recall campaign was mounted, and a case filed with the California Fair Political Practices Commission, which has yet to complete the investigation.

Right when it looked like the Walt Ranch project was poised to move forward, an unexpected Hail Mary pass was tossed when the Land Trust of Napa County, in a joint statement with Hall Winery, announced the Land Trust’s intention to buy the property. A deal that, if finalized, would be one of the largest the trust has completed in its 46-year history. The total sale price has not been disclosed (the couple paid $8 million in 2005), but the Halls have agreed to donate more than a quarter of the value of the land. Like all good tales, a final hurdle remains: the Land Trust must raise the purchase funds by May 31. The organization has been in communication with government agencies and nonprofit groups to raise funds for the purchase. In a release, Land Trust of Napa County CEO Doug Parker stated he believes those organizations will contribute “a large proportion” of the money.

Mothers Tacos

When it comes to other biz around town, my mom is not the only one inspiring greatness. Benedict Koenig, founder of the popular Heritage Eats in Napa, opened Mothers Tacos to satiate those clamoring for street tacos. The venture was inspired by a trip to Mexico City, where Koenig and his wife Ali (co-founder of Heritage Eats) fell in love with the city’s taqueria culture. The name is a nod to Ali’s mom, who hails from Mexico City, and to Koenig’s mother, whose love of cooking drew him into the restaurant business. The spot, which was co-founded by Koenig and his partner Charles Whittaker, places an emphasis on authentic Mexico City tacos, situated in a Mexican market taquería setting. “We are not aiming to be a typical stateside Mexican restaurant, where tacos are merely a component of a much larger menu. We aim to be ‘taco puristas’ (taco purists), with a menu focused almost solely around the taco. Handmade tortillas using high-quality heirloom masa, a variety of ‘from scratch’ salsas and an overriding emphasis on flavor and quality across the menu.”

On a recent visit, I sampled the chicken and al pastor (spit-grilled seasoned pork) tacos, horchata and fresh salsas, which were brimming with flavors. The suadero mulita (think gooey, cheesy grilled tortilla sandwich with beef rib meat) and dirty fries were also standouts and more affordable than anything I could ever score Up Valley. In addition to Heritage Eats and Mothers, the Koenigs persevered during the pandemic by serving the masses with the Best Food Truck ever, and later took over Napa Valley Lobster Co. through a partnership with founder Ines Chiarello, another mama who knows best—especially when it came to stirring up 17,000 lobsters and more than 750 boils a year.

As for Mom’s mantra, later this month Napa County residents will find out if persistence paid in the plight against Walt Ranch.