Bricoleur | Bri · Co · Leur | French—One who starts building something with no clear plan, adding bits here and there, cobbling together a whole while flying by the seat of their pants.
It’s a beautiful Indian Summer afternoon—warm but crisp, with leaves starting to turn and harvest not yet complete (so the smell of grapes is everywhere)—when we arrive at Bricoleur’s expansive winery property on the westside of Windsor.
We’re greeted with a warm welcome and a chilled glass of sparkling, called Flying By the Seat of Our Pants. It’s dry (with a hint of sweetness), a whiff of nuttiness on the nose and citrus and brioche on the palate.
Wine first
Established in 2017 and open for tastings in 2020, Bricoleur has quickly become a heralded destination for those who embrace the magic of a great wine-and-food pairing. The culinary team is led by chef Todd Knoll, who’s joined on the journey by sous chef Becca Robinson. They work with winemakers Cary Gott and Bob Cabral, as well as owner Mark Hansen to devise creative and delicious fare that pairs with each wine.
“We challenge them to flip the script,” says Hansen. “Tom, especially, comes from a background of pairing wine to food—meaning food came first. Instead, we decide which wines we want to feature and they then have to develop flavors that bring out the best [in the wines].” It’s a subtle but vital difference, and the resulting combinations are top-notch.
Inspired pairings
We’re seated outside to enjoy the fall weather, with a view of the rose garden/bocce court and an herb garden that supplies the culinary team. A pair of black swans glide past on a nearby pond. The vibe is casual elegance—Sonoma County through and through.
We start with the first of three pairing flights. Our host pours the Isla Rose Brut Rosé and 2022 Kick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc. The bubbles are aromatic and bright and the sauv blanc is super light and refreshing; time in stainless steel and neutral oak has smoothed out the edges. An abalone fritter and portion of trout pastrami are wonderful accompaniments. Named for the Hansens’ granddaughter (and released on her first birthday), the Isla Rose Brut Rosé is currently being sold as a fundraiser for cancer research nonprofit V Foundation.
The second flight is autumn on a plate. Miso roasted squash and chestnut gnocchi bring earthy, seasonal flavors that work well with an unoaked and a more traditional chardonnay. Bites are creamy and rich, accenting the wines beautifully.
Everything until now has been good—really good—but the third set of pairings shines. Maybe it’s the turn of the seasons, but savory bites of venison and cranberry, and of savory pain perdu with smoked cheese and fig chutney, just elevate the 2021 Estate Pinot Noir and 2021 Rockpile Zinfandel. The bolder flavors match the pinot’s silky texture and the zin’s truffle and smokiness.
As we sit and savor, we spot owner Mark Hansen at a nearby table. Apparently, he makes the rounds often to greet visitors and share the Bricoleur Vineyards story. It’s just another level of personal attention that makes the hospitality here sing.
More to see
After our tasting concludes, we wander the grounds, finding multiple picture-perfect vistas, alcoves and pathways, each a destination unto itself. The landscaping isn’t fussy, but instead feels meant for enjoyment; we sneak a ripe fig off a tree as we enjoy the view, rub our hands through lavender and rosemary bushes to awaken the scents. Bees hum happily as we watch a small raptor swoop down, hoping to catch a meal. If you’re planning a visit to Bricoleur, give yourself enough time to savor the estate for all that it is.
Bricoleur Vineyards
7394 Starr Road, Windsor
707-857-5700
bricoleurvineyards.com
Tastings
Communal Rooted, for parties of 1 to 6 ($125 per flight); or Private Rooted with 1 to 12 guests ($150 per flight)—a seasonal six-course wine and food pairing at the communal chef’s table. Soaring, for parties of 1 to 6 ($75) or 7 to 12 ($100)—three Bricoleur Vineyards wines seasonally paired with small bites.
Atelier Bricoleur, for 2 to 8 guests ($580 per person)—a multi-course, after-hours wine and dinner experience at the chef’s table.
