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Sopa de Lima: A tastebud trip to the Yucatan

in-the-kitchen-3
Mexican chicken soup and lime
in-the-kitchen-3

By John Ash

 

One of the classic dishes of the Yucatan, the tomatillos enhance the lime flavor. We usually think of beer as the beverage of choice with Mexican food. But wine does work as well. Choose something with matching acidity like a crisp sauvignon blanc or unoaked chardonnay.

Serves 8 or more

Coconut or olive oil for frying

One 8-ounce package yellow or white corn tortillas, sliced into strips 1/4 inch by 2 inches

1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds)

2 medium white onions, peeled, halved and sliced lengthwise

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 medium-fresh poblano peppers, stemmed, seeded and diced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons oregano, preferably Mexican

1 teaspoon fennel seed

2 teaspoons pure chile powder such as ancho or 1/2 teaspoon chile flakes

3 cups or so quartered tomatillos

2 cups cooked long-grain white rice

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

5 large limes, 4 juiced and 1 cut into wedges for garnish

Accompaniments: Sliced jalapeños, cilantro sprigs, avocado slices, crumbled cotija cheese and reserved tortilla strips

Line a plate with a paper towel. Add an inch of oil to a deep saucepan and over moderately high heat, fry the tortilla strips until crisp and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the tortilla strips to the towel-lined plate and let them cool.

Nestle the chicken in a large stock pot and pour enough water into the pot to cover the chicken by 2 inches. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium-high heat and then immediately reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover and very gently simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the meat shreds easily with a fork, about 1-1/2 hours.

Remove the chicken from the pot and place on a plate to rest until it’s cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skin. Pull the meat from the bone, discarding bones, shred or tear it and set aside.

Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids and set aside. Wipe out the pot, add 2 tablespoons of oil and over moderate heat, sauté the onions, garlic, poblano, cumin, oregano, fennel seed and chile until vegetables are softened, about 6 minutes.  Add 6 cups or so of the stock, tomatillos, reserved chicken and simmer for 10 minutes more.  Taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper, more chile powder and lime juice (at least 3 tablespoons) to your taste..

Add a scoop of rice to warm bowls and ladle soup over. Pass accompaniments separately and allow each guest to add to his or her bowl as desired.

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