Joseph Swan Vineyards
2916 Laguna Road
Forestville, CA
(707) 573-3747
www.swanwinery.com
Hours: Appointments only Monday-Friday, weekends 11 p.m. – 4 p.m.
Tasting fees: $10 (fee waived with wine purchase)
Wines offered: 2015 Catie’s Corner Viognier, 2013 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, 2013 Saralee Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2013 Cuveé de Trois Pinot Noir, 2012 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel
Reservations: Necessary (Monday and Friday)
Picnics: Not available
Pets: No pets
When Swan retired from a career as a World War II pilot in Europe as well as a commercial pilot for Western Air, he developed a passion for fine food and wine. In 1967, he purchased the property and began making wine from the property’s remaining Zinfandel vines.
Primarily a Pinot Noir house that makes Zinfandel totalling 30 other wines, Swan always intended his winery to be a small production hobby. He was urged and encouraged by friend and mentor André Tchelistcheff, one of the late great winemakers, who helped Swan replant and grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the property, which thrive in the foggy, cool climate.
Swan’s last vintage was in 1987, and his son in-law, Rod Berglund, who is now head winemaker, helped him finish his last harvest. Berglund began his winemaking career in 1979 at La Crema Vinera, (now La Crema.) According to assistant winemaker Ted Kizor, Rod describes himself as “nature’s midwife.” Occasionally, he says, “you hear Rod say, ‘The grapes are calling for their maker,’” he says with a laugh. Kizor explains it’s better to make a sound wine than to be dogmatic, using natural winemaking practices whenever possible to make wines of distinction, and there’s nothing quiet about their wines. Featuring red wines made from native yeasts and Viognier from stainless steel and old Coca-Cola drums, the wines at Joseph Swan Vineyards are one-of-a kind.
We begin with the 2015 Viognier, sourced from Catie’s Corner vineyards. With a subtle bitterness and apricot aroma, this acidic-driven wine is delicate, even though the grape is characteristically tough. “Viognier is the hardest white wine to make,” says Kizor, “but they’re what Rod does best.” If overripe, the grapes can be unappealing, oily and viscious, and if underripe, they’re unusable, bitter and coarse.” With no temperature control, Kizor admits they’re lucky to get great consistency.
Next, we taste the 2013 Chardonnay from Ritchie Vineyard grapes. This is the plushest Chardonnay of the four offered, says Kizor, and is much like drinking liquid velvet. Aged in one-third new French oak the Chardonnay is smooth and earthy, easily enjoyable on its own. Later, I found that it pairs well with linguini and clams. The buttery wine is smooth and rich, and offers just enough acidity.
The 2013 Pinot Noir from Saralee’s Vineyard is twenty percent whole cluster. The grapes are in oak for 10 months, and due to color reabsorption during their long maceration, result in a lighter color than other Russian River Pinots. They’ve been making this wine since 1996 and the result is a light, jammy wine with notes of cherry and blackberry and a noticeably oaky presence.
Next, we try the 2013 Cuveé de Trois Pinot Noir. “It’s our Russian River blend without a single designated vineyard,” explains Kizor. Slightly dry, acidic and with notes of berries, this Pinot contains up to eight different Russian River Pinot vineyards, including the estate’s old vines.
We end with a 2012 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel. Planted in 1924 on the corner of Piner and Olivet Road, “This is a Pinot lovers gateway to Zin,” says Kizor. It’s light, fruity, dry and has a lot going on. Swan’s first wine made in the estate was Zinfandel, and unlike a lot of heavy, sugary Zins, the Mancini Ranch has just enough complexity and ease to make you enter the gate.
There’s something for every palate at Joseph Swan Vineyards. Visit their rustic tasting room for a one-of-a-kind tasting experience. “We’re in it for the long haul. We just stick to what we know how to do well, and that’s making great Pinot and Zin.”
