Laurel Glen Vineyard
969 Carquinez Ave.
Glen Ellen, Calif. 95442
(707) 933-9877
www.laurelglen.com
Hours: Open Daily 11-5 p.m.
Tasting Fees: $25
Wines Offered: 2016 Blanc Slate Sauvignon Blanc, 2016 Rosella Rosé, 2014 Laurel Glen Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Laurel Glen Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 Laurel Glen Library Cabernet
Reservations: Seated tastings by appointment
Picnics: Club members only
Pets: Well-behaved dogs (and children) welcome
Did You Know? Laurel Glen Vineyard produces 3,000 cases of wine each year. Despite its small production, the winery is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, which has received international acclaim for its exceptional balance, elegance and ability to age gracefully.
Glen Ellen is an enchanting village in the heart of the Sonoma Valley with a timeless feel, a place where you half expect to encounter Jack London and his wife, Charmian, who once lived in the area on Beauty Ranch. It’s also home to Laurel Glen Vineyard, located a thousand feet up the slopes of Sonoma Mountain, and long considered one of the iconic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards of California. Originally planted in the 1880s, no doubt the Londons once enjoyed wine from the same vines on Sonoma Mountain.
The present-day vineyard was developed in the 1970s by Patrick Campbell, a winemaking pioneer, who originated the Laurel Glen Clone of Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard’s high altitude, eastern exposure and rocky soils produce distinctive wines. After 30 vintages, Campbell sold the vineyard and winery to a group of wine lovers led by Bettina Sichel, general manager and partner, whose family has been in the business of wine for generations. Her father, Peter Sichel, transformed Blue Nun, his family’s brand from Germany, into an international phenomenon. As a fifth-generation winemaker, young Bettina knew she was destined for a career in the industry. “It was always understood I’d go into the wine business,” she says with a smile.
Since the early days, Laurel Glen Vineyard produced wines with minimal handling and gravity flow when possible. Sichel’s arrival in 2011 heralded a new era of winemaking at Laurel Glen. She and her team—which includes Randall Watkins (the winemaker, whose business card reads “grape squisher”), and Phil Coturri, a viticulturist—have made some changes. “We’ve modernized the farm and are reducing the amount of grapes each vine grows,” she says. “We’re producing less fruit, but higher concentrations of flavor and more even ripening.”
We begin with the 2015 Blanc Slate Sauvignon, the winery’s first foray into white wine after decades of producing reds. Aged in stainless steel, the Sauvignon Blanc is crisp and refreshing. “It has a little richness, but fresh clear flavors,” says Sichel.
Next, we try the 2016 Rosella Rosé, which is only sold in the tasting room. Though Rosé is a hot new trend these days, this wine is made with mixed black fruit from vines planted in the 1800s. “It’s a true field blend from beautiful, twisty old vines planted by German immigrants,” says Watkins. The Rosé has lush bright flavors, and sells quickly. “We introduce it in April, and it’s usually gone by Labor Day,” says Watkins.
Moving to the reds, we taste the 2014 Laurel Glen Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon. A Sonoma Mountain grown wine, this Cabernet offers smooth, berry flavors, and can be enjoyed upon release. The 2013 Laurel Glen Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery’s flagship wine. “It’s the best of what we harvest, and we aim to make it as good as we can,” says Sichel. “We’re proud of how it ages.”
When it comes to winemaking, Watkin’s philosophy is to let the fruit on the vines speak for themselves. “I like to express the sense of place and what the vineyard provides,” says Watkins. “Sonoma Mountain is an east-facing slope and has rocky, volcanic soils. The vines [there] are smaller, and the grapes are more concentrated and highly pigmented. It produces a wine that’s the perfect balance of fruit ripeness, alcohol and natural grape acidity.”
Last, we try the 2009 Laurel Glen Vineyard Library Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage is a significant one for the winemaking team. “It’s the first vintage where we had any influence.” Rich and earthy, this is a wine to linger over and enjoy.
There’s a timeless quality to Laurel Glen wines, which offer a distinctive earthy taste. With the exception of the Sauvignon Blanc and the Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon, all fruit is sourced from their vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, which sits above the fog line on an eastern-facing plateau, which benefits from full sun without intense heat in the afternoon. “These wines have a lot of layers—they’re savory, earthy and elegant,” says Watkins.
“This is where the old and new worlds meet,” adds Sichel, sipping a Cabernet. “You can taste the soil, mineral and place, but pretty fruit character and polished tannins.”
Celebrating their 49th harvest this season, the winemaking team at Laurel Glen embraces their history, but looks to the future. “Laurel Glen was once considered one of the great Cabernets in California, but it’s been forgotten by sommeliers and the press,” says Sichel. “I want it to be considered one of the greats again
