We recently hosted a most interesting tasting. The agenda was to blindly evaluate the best 17 Cabernet Francs we could identify from the Napa Valley. An august panel gathered inside the lovely Brix restaurant wine cellar in Napa for dinner and wine tasting at about 6:30 one evening, and kept each other’s attention with commentary and observations until nearly 10 p.m. We moderated and facilitated for the following participants:
Susan Doyle (director of winemaking, Spring Mountain)
Sara Fowler (winemaker, Peju)
Tres Goetting (winemaker, Robert Biale)
Todd Graff (winemaker and general manager, Frank Family)
Jeff Hinchcliffe (winemaker, Hanna)
Tim McDonald (public relations specialist and noted wine judge)
Mike Patland (owner, Patland Vineyards and sommelier)
Aaron Pott (winemaker and owner, Pott Wines)
After tasting the designated wines, each panelist was asked to rate his or her preferences from one to nine. These industry professionals were impressed by the structure, flavors, and balance of most of the wines we had personally selected as our choices for the best. One participant, Mike Patland, until then not even a true Cab Franc fan, was particularly won over.
Research shows that Cabernet Franc was probably first established in southwest France sometime in the 17th century, when Cardinal Richelieu took vine cuttings to the Loire Valley. By the 18th century, plantings of Cabernet Franc (known as Bouchet) were found throughout Fronsac, Pomerol, and St-Emilion. And in 1997, DNA evidence emerged to show that Cabernet Franc had crossed with Sauvignon Blanc to produce Cabernet Sauvignon.
Not surprisingly, then, Cab Franc is similar in many ways to Cabernet Sauvignon, but ripens about a week to two weeks earlier, allowing it to thrive in slightly cooler climates than Cabernet Sauvignon. It can adapt to a wide variety of soil types, but may grow best in areas that are sandy and chalky. While sharing many of the same phenolic and aroma compounds with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc does have some noticeable differences—it tends to be lighter in color and shows more pronounced notes of perfume, raspberries, violets and currants. If over cropped, it is more likely to exhibit some greenness in the form of leaves or bell peppers. Strong and structured, Franc still has slightly less tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, and thus tends to produce a wine with a smoother mouthfeel.
Medium-bodied, Cab Franc easily pairs with a wide variety of foods due to its relatively high acidity and lower tannins. The former makes it possible to pair with tomato-based dishes or vinegar-based sauces. While used for many years primarily as a blending grape, it is a stand-alone popular wine throughout the world right now, and is proving to be a beautiful accompaniment to food, or perfect to enjoy on its own.
Below are the top nine Cabernet Francs in order of the panel’s preference, plus a few comments. A first place vote garnered 9 points, a second place vote was awarded 8, and so on.
1. Pride Mt. 2014 Napa/Sonoma ($70)
2. Chappellet 2014 Napa Valley ($80)
3. Crocker & Starr 2014 St. Helena ($80)
3. Detert 2014 Oakville ($95)
3. Peju Reserve 2013 Napa Valley ($145)
6. Brasswood 2013 Napa Valley ($85)
6. V. Sattui 2014 Alexander Valley ($42)
8. Vinoce 2013 Mt. Veeder ($75)
8. Tresspass 2013 St. Helena ($85)
The other fine wines deemed worthy for this tasting: Barnett 2014 Estate Spring Mt. ($75); Cosentino 2015 Reserve ($60); Delectus 2013 Knight Valley ($78); Girard 2014 Napa ($60); Peju 2013 Petit Trois Napa ($75); Viader 2015 DARE Napa ($75); and William Harrison 2013 Rutherford ($65).
A few comments:
• Pretty obviously per the numbering above, there were ties for 3; 6; and 8.
• First place votes: Chappellet, Crocker & Starr – 2 each
• Brasswood, Pride, V. Sattui, Viader – 1 each
• Most second place votes: Peju Reserve
• Every wine received at least two votes.
• Highest score – 49. Lowest score – 11.
Generally, the more expensive wines scored higher, with two glaring exceptions. One is the almost bargain priced entry from V. Sattui, and the other is that only four wines were less expensive than the number one pick, Pride.
Cabernet Franc has always been one of our favorites because of its versatility. Emerging from the tasting were, yes, some that appealed to a majority of people, but all the wines presented could easily be enjoyed with any numbers of foods. As with many (granted, not all) stand-alones, especially in the United States, the wines improve from year to year.
Monty & Sara Preiser have been writing about wines for magazines, newspapers and websites for 25 years. Today, they publish the highest circulated winery guide for Napa and Southeast Sonoma. They are also co-owners of the premium Shadowbox Cellars wines. They can be reached at nightlawyer12@aol.com.
