Hazel Hill's salmon dish
Nestled amidst 22,000 oak trees and vine-covered hills in the heart of Sonoma County, Montage Healdsburg is located on 258 acres and offers a great escape for those looking to slip away and get off the grid. Alex and I ventured there one mild spring evening, and as soon as we drove onto Montage Way, we knew we were in for a memorable experience.
The resort opened on Dec. 12 last year in the midst of the pandemic, only to close the next day to comply with another shelter-in-place order. It reopened in January, welcoming travelers and locals once again. Montage Healdsburg offers a variety of fine dining options, but its signature restaurant is Hazel Hill.
When we arrive, we’re seated indoors at a table set with a small bouquet of fresh cut tulips and a candle. As we study the menu, an elegant carafe of water is brought to the table. I admit, small touches like this go a long way with me and always add to the ambience and magic of dining out.
We begin with two glasses of Sonoma County’s finest—the Arista Chardonnay from Russian River Valley for me, which offers aromas of peach and apricots and a lush texture. Alex, who prefers reds, opts for the Freeman Pinot Noir. Just one sip and he is pleasantly surprised by its bold flavor and comments on it. “This is the Pinot for a Cab drinker because it’s so big,” says Gabi Ingram, our server for the evening. As we sip on our wine, we drink in the landscape and a spectacular view of Mount Saint Helena. The restaurant’s name is a nod to the hazelnut trees recently planted on a hill amid surrounding vineyards on the property.
When we place our order, we let Ingram lead the way. She recommends a few signature starters. As we enjoy our wine, we dive into the bread basket, a rustic loaf of sourdough served warm, along with a plated round of butter, topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of bee pollen, which was a beautiful surprise and delicious, too.
We begin with the English pea soup. A lovely starter with fresh, bright notes, it’s topped with a dollop of coconut yogurt, pea sprouts and coppa, which is similar to prosciutto. Next, we try the big eye tuna, a Japanese specialty, served California-style with blood orange, Sicilian pistachios and shiso, an herb traditionally used in Japan with a unique, bright taste reminiscent of mint, basil, tarragon, cinnamon and anise. This is a beautiful plate of food and so fresh, prepare for an awakening once you try it.
For the entrees, we sample a few that are already popular with their patrons. At Hazel Hill, food is art and that’s part of the fun of the dining experience. The Liberty Farms duck breast is served with turnips, a sprinkling of pistachios and a rhubarb relish, which offers an unexpected fresh note. The Alaskan halibut is perfectly poached, served on a bed of greens, lightly sauteed in a delicate white sauce, and served with English peas and lardons (a fancy word for slab bacon). A lovely plate of food, this is spring on a plate and a celebration of the season. We also try another favorite with patrons—the Westholme New York strip, served with duck fat potatoes, baby carrots, cipollini onion and a generous puddle of sauce. This is a spectacular plate of food with hearty, woodsy flavors.
After dinner, Chef de Cuisine Jason Pringle stops by our table. When I ask about his approach in the kitchen, his response is magnificently simple, “Cooking with the season and making things fresh and bright.” Indeed. Part of the joy of dining out is exploring great new restaurants and local flavors, and the menu is tweaked often based on the seasons and the freshest ingredients available. Chef Jason and his culinary team have mastered the art of terroir-to-table, French-influenced cuisine, served California-style. Somehow it manages to be both refined, yet as satisfying as comfort food.
For dessert, we sampled the lemon ricotta cheesecake, an exquisite dessert made with rosemary crust, pistachio anglaise and herb tuile, which is just the right amount of sweet and hits all the right notes. We also enjoy the chocolate crunch bar, an elegant confection made with a hazelnut cookie, Valrhona chocolate and Frangelico ice cream. This chocolate dessert will satisfy your inner child.
Dining in this gem of a hideaway is much like eating out in a luxurious tree house, designed for adults. It’s a great romantic getaway for two, though you can bring the family and no doubt kids will enjoy the experience, too. Next time you’re looking for a unique dining adventure, make a reservation at Hazel Hill, where you can relax and sink into the experience. This is one Sonoma County secret hideaway that I suspect won’t remain secret for long.
At A Glance
Fare: French-influenced California Cuisine
Address: 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, Calif. 95448
Website: montagehotels.com/healdsburg/
Phone: (707) 979-9000
Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Entrees: $42—$65
[Photos by Christian Horan]
