The Italians hold strong to their heritage. They know food and they know that dining together is cause for celebration—small details not missed by my two sons when we visited Italy during their teenage years, searching out those little neighborhood trattorias after a day of exploring. There’s something universally appealing about Italian cuisine, and it all comes down to this: fresh ingredients, prepared slowly and executed with care and simplicity. After that first trip, the take-home point for my sons was to adopt the same approach to food as the Italians and, of course, always be on the lookout for a good trattoria in the neighborhood wherever life takes you.
In Italy, Piatti is the Italian word for “dishes,” but in Mill Valley, it has been a beloved trattoria and something of a landmark, since the ’80s. The property was refreshed and transformed into a contemporary space with a warm, casual vibe, and reopened in October last year.
Alex and I venture there on a cold, wet winter day just before 6 p.m. When we arrive, we’re seated near the fireplace and the new general manager, Ernesto Monalo, stops by to welcome us. “Piatti has been around for a long time,” he says, adding that the goal was to retain its traditional feel and offer a fresh take on the neighborhood Italian joint. “We want people to come in and enjoy a good meal at a nice pace, and not feel rushed.”
Our server for the evening is Henry Gongora, who’s been working there for seven years. We begin with spirited libations. Alex opts for the Nocino old-fashioned, which is made with bourbon, nocino (an Italian liqueur made with unripe walnuts), orange and aromatic bitters. In the spirit of the evening, I begin with a glass of vino, sourced from fruit kissed under the Tuscan sun—the San Palo, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riserva, a silky fruit-forward blend. We enjoy our drinks, the ambiance, study the menu and then invite Gongora to lead the way.
As all good Italian meals go, Gongora brings a plate of warm bread and dipping oil, soon followed by a small skillet of marinated olives. Served warm and flavored with roasted garlic cloves, as well as a touch of chili flakes and mint, it was the perfect prelude to an Italian meal and an unexpected showstopper because of its simplicity. We also enjoyed the meatballs al forno, which are also served in a small skillet and saturated with sauce. A concoction of pork and beef, breadcrumbs, Parmesan and parsley, these savory spheres are tantalizingly good and bursting with flavor.
For the second course, we enjoyed another go-to patron favorite—the Tricolore Caesar, which includes romaine, radicchio, frisée, lightly dressed with a garlic-anchovy dressing and a generous showering of Parmesan. The radicchio gives it a nice kick, and though I’ve never been a huge fan of croutons, I found myself searching for these delicious morsels after the first bite. (This is a superb plate of greens that we were still talking about a week later.)
The pasta is handmade daily at Piatti, so we shared an assortment of plates. The pappardelle, served with braised beef ragu and pecorino, is a hearty and savory plate of pasta for meat lovers. If you’re looking for a vegetarian option, try the campanelle with mushrooms, kale and Parmesan. Topped with toasted walnuts, it’s a thoughtful touch that adds both protein and a crunch. At Gongaro’s suggestion, we also sampled his personal favorite—short ribs. Mama mia—we were grateful for the recommendation. This is a hearty and warming plate of food that tastes as if it’s been slow-cooked all day. Melt-in-your-mouth good, it’s served on a generous mound of polenta, the perfect accompaniment for sopping up all the delicious juices. Magnifico! (Picture me kissing my fingertips saying, mwah.)
For dessert, we shared a classic—the tiramisu with mascarpone and dark chocolate, which was just the right amount of sweet and an exquisite end to the meal.
Next time you’re in Mill Valley, head over to Piatti for a meal that tastes as if there’s a real Italian nonni in the kitchen. Bring your love, your family, or dine there with friends and sink into the experience Italian-style. Piatti is a great venue to step back from the everyday bustle of life, enjoy a good meal, a glass of vino and connect with the ones you love.
Piatti
Address: 625 Redwood Highway, Mill Valley, Calif. 94941 
Phone: (415) 380-2525
website: millvalley.piatti.com
Fare: Italian Cuisine
Hours: Open Tuesday—Saturday; 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Price: Entrees $17—$26
[Photos by Michelle Min]
