House of Better

dinewise_chili
Located at Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs, it features Southwestern-inspired fare with a focus on wellness and nutrition.
dinewise_chili

In a world where fast food reigns supreme, I’ve always appreciated the trend towards elevated fast-casual dining. Sometimes you just want a great meal, minus the fuss of reservations, high prices and lengthy turnaround times. By definition, a fast-casual restaurant offers the ease and convenience of fast food, but with a better atmosphere. And of course, the heart of the difference between the two is the quality of ingredients and creativity.

I’m a firm believer that healthy food—when done right—can be delicious, so I was immediately intrigued when House of Better opened its doors last year. Located at Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs, it features Southwestern-inspired fare with a focus on wellness and nutrition. Chef Trevor Logan of San Francisco’s Green Chili Kitchen is at the helm. From the start, says Logan, the goal was to offer hearty alternative options for wellness-driven food without compromising nutritious ingredients and flavor. “Dr. Wilkinson’s is all about the connection between wellness and happiness, and House of Better reignites this playful atmosphere through a dining experience unlike any other in Calistoga and Napa Valley,” he says. “Our concept goes far beyond great tasting food and explores the deeper benefits of what fresh ingredients can do for the mind, body and spirit in every bite.”

I was curious to experience this place where “wellness meets happiness.” Alex and I ventured there on a Wednesday evening at dusk, that magical golden hour when the earth is aglow. White lights strung above the lawn area were lit up, adding a touch of magic. We placed our order at the counter as soon as we arrived with Jenny Russell, the bar manager, who offered a few tips as we studied the menu.

Since it was a cool evening, we opted to eat in the open-air tent on the lawn and settled in at our table. Within a matter of minutes, our beverages arrived, two glasses of vino—one white and one red from Chateau Montelena. As we sipped our drinks, I watched as a young girl slipped away from dinner with her family to do a cartwheel on the lawn. That’s the vibe at House of Better. Need I say more?

And then, just like that, our first starter arrived—a tasting flight of guacamole, offering a trio of flavors (Japanese, Middle Eastern and Mexican), served with tortilla chips. The Mexican guac is a classic crowd-pleaser with jalapeño, cilantro and lime. The Middle Eastern version features sumac, coriander, lemon zest and dukka (an aromatic spice blend). The Japanese guac is flavored with yuzu furikake, wasabi, ginger and toasted sesame oil. Being a bit of a purist, I was most skeptical of the Japanese version. (Wasabi, ginger and sesame oil—really?) But this was our favorite, and the toasted sesame oil gives it a lot of depth. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the trio, but you can also order one large portion.

For the entrees, we sampled two patron favorites. The green chili stew with its rich, hearty broth can be ordered with pork, chicken or veggies. It’s a soul-satisfying bowl of deliciousness, served with crema and topped with fresh cilantro. We also shared the New Mexican flat enchiladas. This entrée is a work of art—corn tortillas layered with cheese, carne adovada (pork stewed in a sauce of dried ground chilis), and topped with a generous ladle of red or green chili. (We opted for both red and green, known there as “Christmas chili.”) This is a dreamy dish from Mexico with layers of smoky flavor, served with a side of rancho gordo midnight black beans and fresh greens.

Chef Logan and crew have managed to create a fast-casual menu that appeals to everyone—meat lovers, vegetarians and vegans, too. There’s a special section on the menu for mindful eaters—Hearty + Healthy, and for those looking for their burger fix, you’ll find that on the menu with fries available as a side.

Part of eating well is remembering to splurge from time to time, so we indulged in two slices of pie. The lemon buttermilk pie is a light and creamy, lemony take on a nostalgic dessert that dates back to the Depression and World War II when desserts were concocted with pantry staples. We also enjoyed the green chili apple pie, the No. 1 house specialty with a walnut streusel and a crust made with bits of cheese folded into it. Served with a scoop of whipped cream and a drizzle of red chili honey, it was an inventive take on apple pie. I recommend both—we devoured them.

If you’re looking for a fast-casual experience, check out House of Better and don’t hesitate to bring the kids and even your pooch. They can frolic on the lawn together, if you want to linger over your meal. For those who live in the area, I promise this is the sort of place you’ll want to dine at routinely. For those who don’t, add House of Better to your itinerary next time you’re in Calistoga for a memorable fast-casual experience. Be sure to order a slice of pie or take a whole pie to-go.

 

House of Better

Address: 1507 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga, Calif.

Phone: (707) 942-6257

Web: houseofbetter.com

Fare: Southwestern-Inspired Fast Casual

Hours: Open Monday—Thursday & Sundays 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Tuesdays 8 a.m. to 12 p.m.; Friday & Saturday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Entrees: $8—$22

Libations: Wine/Beer/Herbal Tonics/Teas

[Photos by Emma K. Harris]

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