Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro

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The rustic country roadhouse bistro on Guerneville Road has a lot of history. It was originally a chicken coop and then housed two highly-regarded restaurants before Stephen Hansel transformed it into a bistro as a tribute to his father, Walter Hansel, who was once in the auto business. “My father was not the gregarious car dealer,” says Stephen. “He was quiet, loved gardening and loved to watch the growth of things.” He was also passionate about good wine and fresh ingredients, and dinner with the family was his favorite meal of the day. “It was a time to interact and be together,” he adds. How Walter moved through life left an indelible impression on Stephen, who named his restaurant after his father when he opened the doors to business in 2013.

In the beginning, the bistro was only meant to be an extension of Stephen’s other business enterprise, Walter Hansel Wines. And the French influence was mostly accidental when Stephen hired a chef who was from France, but when he left the restaurant, his sous chef, Saul Barragan, stepped into the role and today Chef Saul helms the kitchen.

Chef Saul Barragon

Walter Hansel Bistro is a mainstay of Sonoma County’s dining scene. Alex and I arrive on a Thursday at 6 o’clock, and we’re seated at an intimate table for two. Our server for the evening is Jesse Abend. In the spirit of the evening, we begin with two glasses of Walter Hansel vino—the Cuvee Alyce Chardonnay (named for his mother), a bright, lush Chardonnay, and the South Slope Pinot Noir, which is full-bodied and fruit-forward. As we’re sipping on our wine, a couple seated nearby looks over the menu, conversing in French. (Always a good sign when dining on the cuisine of a different culture and adding to the ambiance.)

We begin with the escargot a la bourguignonne, a classic dish and the perfect beginning for a restaurant that’s known for its French country-style cuisine. These savory morsels and the garlic-y sauce in this dish is almost as delicious as the escargots themselves. (Be sure not to pass on the breadbasket, so you can sop up the luxurious snail butter.) Next, we enjoy another signature dish, the lobster bisque en croute with chunks of Maine lobster, brandy and a touch of tarragon—a rich, decadent dish. We also enjoy the beet salad made with paper-thin slices of roasted ruby, golden and Chioggia beets, Marcona almonds, and arugula and drizzled with a citrus Champagne vinaigrette. This plate hits all the right fresh, earthy notes.

Though the menu is rotated every two weeks, the chicken cordon bleu is a classic French dish and a staple on the menu. Stuffed with Prosciutto de Parma, Gruyere cheese and breaded panko, it’s topped with a savory Dijon cream sauce and served with Brussels sprouts and roasted fingerling potatoes. We also enjoyed the boneless beef short ribs stroganoff. Braised in Pinot Noir, this is a beautiful, savory dish and the sauce is a bridge between the meat and the wine.

Stepping back. Slowing down. A visit to Walter Hansel is an experience where time stands still in between bites. The clink of a glass, the low hum of conversation and laughter, and a leisurely relaxed aura permeate the space. This is a place to enjoy those you’re dining with and linger between courses, enjoying each delicious moment. Each dish is a work of art that delights the eye and warms the soul. And though Chef Saul grew up working with the flavors of Mexico, he is clearly a master of French cuisine. The key, he says, is to keep it simple. “Once you know the flavors, you cook to taste and make it come together as one.”

As we lingered over dessert, I found myself wondering about the man who inspired Walter Hansel Bistro and appreciated the simple pleasures of wine, food and the intimacy of dining together with the people you love. “My father always loved small intimate spaces,” says Stephen. “Dinner was a time to interact and be together—he loved the food, the wine and camaraderie. Walter Hansel delivers on all of those things. And people often leave here meeting new acquaintances.” Next time you’re looking for an intimate dining experience where time stands still, make a reservation at this bistro and be sure to raise your glass and toast Walter Hansel.

 

Walter Hansel Wine & Bistro

Address: 3535 Guerneville Road; Santa Rosa, Calif. 95401

Phone: (707) 546-6462

Website: walterhanselbistro.com

Fare: French Country-Style Cuisine

Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails

Price: $18.50—$38

[Duncan Garrett Photography]

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