When dining out, vegetables are mostly a sidenote and often overlooked on menus, while meat and fish play the starring roles. And though there’s usually one lone plant-based entrée on a menu, it’s mostly dismissed. So when Little Saint opened earlier this year in downtown Healdsburg and put vegetables front and center on the menu, I admit, I was more than intrigued. I felt a little rush of excitement. A full-service, restaurant and bar, café and gourmet shop, operated by the three-Michelin-starred Chef Kyle and Katina Connaughton’s management arm, Vertice Hospitality Management, well it seemed destined for greatness. The Connaughtons know food and when it comes to plant-based eating, it’s not all tofu and tempeh.
On the drive to Healdsburg, I mentioned oh-so-casually to Alex, who’s always up for accompanying me on these culinary adventures, that we’d be dining at a plant-based restaurant. Alex is quite the gardener, so he fully appreciates fresh vegetables, and he can whip up sauteed zucchini patties and veggie tacos that would cause his celebrity chef hero Bobbie Flay to pause and take note. But on this night, he was, no doubt, hoping he’d find steak-frites on the menu. There was a notable pause. He didn’t complain, but his silence spoke volumes.
We arrived at six-thirty and were seated in the main dining area. Little Saint has a hip, cool vibe with a coffee shop and wine bar. Our server for the evening introduced herself—Apple, of course, which made us both smile, so we didn’t catch her last name. Since this was our first all-things-plant dining experience, we agreed to let Apple lead the way for the evening. We began with spirited beverages. I opted for the Paloma, a refreshing signature cocktail concocted with tequila, mezcal, grapefruit, lime and sparkling water. At Apple’s recommendation, Alex enjoyed a glass of Cabernet Franc from Loire Valley in central France, an aromatic and exquisite glass of wine with savory characteristics, which pairs well with nearly everything on the menu.
As we sipped on our beverages, we enjoyed a few starters “from the larder,” beginning with soft lavash—a flat bread that’s popular in countries such as Armenia and Iran, it can be easily folded to make wraps. A lover of bread, Alex smiled for the first time that evening, and dug in with his usual gusto. The lavash was served with raw farm vegetables and a selection of spreads to slather on—split pea hummus with zhoug, pumpkin seed dip and a cultured cashew spread. All three spreads were delicious, though my personal favorite was the pumpkin seed dip with chili oil, which has a distinctive smoky depth. Alex’s fave was the split pea hummus with zhoug (a spicy cilantro sauce made with garlic, chili peppers, spices and olive oil). The cashew spread is so creamy, you’d never guess there wasn’t a crumb of cheese. I recommend ordering all three spreads and trying them for yourself.
Next we enjoyed two selections on the menu noted as “from the fields”—the Japanese eggplant and roasted beets. Served with shaved cabbage, crispy rice and xo sauce. An iconic condiment hailing from Hong Kong, the xo is an amalgamation of flavors—sweet, smoky and spicy. It’s a condiment that dominates a dish, and it’s the perfect sauce for the crispy rice that’s so delicious, we couldn’t stop eating it. We also sampled the roasted beets. I understand that many people don’t get excited about fresh beets, and their earthy flavor, but these were extraordinary. Served with stone fruit, macadamia nut miso and a turmeric vinaigrette, this is a thoughtfully reimagined plate of beets.
Our entrée “from the wood oven” is a dish for two—a yellow corn and mushroom biryani. Served in a skillet, it arrives tableside piping hot and generously topped with fried onions. By this time, Alex’s vision of steak-frites for dinner had, no doubt, completely vanished. In between bites, this meat-loving man glanced at me and shook his head in surprising disbelief. His exact words: “Super tasty, impressive and delicious.” I have to agree. This dish just proves that vegan food can be hearty, savory and satisfying—it’s the vegan version of a Thanksgiving meal.
For dessert, we shared the chocolate and hazelnut tartlet, made with miso caramel and vanilla chantilly–it was the perfect sweet note to end our first Little Saint adventure. Afterward, we went upstairs to enjoy the entertainment. There’s live music every Thursday night. (Go online to find weekly performances.)
Next time, you’re looking for something a little different—or maybe trying to get your kids to think beyond carrot and celery sticks—head to Little Saint, for its carefully curated vegan eats. Prepare to feel a little virtuous while you dine on the intentionally creative, plant-based foods that are, as they say at Little Saint, “good for the soul, the earth and our community.”
Little Saint
25 North St.
Healdsburg, Calif. 95448
(707) 433-8207
exploretock.com/littlesaint
Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Entrees $24—$39
[Photos by Emma K. Morris]
