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  • Auld Lang Dine: New Year Brings New Restaurants

Auld Lang Dine: New Year Brings New Restaurants

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Will 2023 be the year I can finally stop talking about the wrath of COVID on our businesses and communities? It’s impossible to know, but what I can report is that new businesses continue to emerge despite the carnage of the past two years.

Up Valley

On the heels of their success with Mangia Mi, proprietors Rebecca White and Kara Keefe, are back at it with the opening of The Olive Branch, also located in Calistoga.

Like many of the best Napa Valley stories, plans for the new Greek restaurant emerged over wine and a meal. During the Harvest Table event (where one long table runs the length of Lincoln Avenue and features elaborate meals from many of the restaurants in town), the duo sat next to Ali Yildirim, owner of Carpe Diem, who had taken ownership of the vacant space that once occupied Puerto Vallarta. The next day they all met, White and Keefe made a deal for the space, and The Olive Branch was born. “Ever since we started in the restaurant business, we’ve always been lucky, right place right time. It happened with Mangia Mi and again here. Our concept is about very honest food. There’s nothing we’re hiding behind. It’s an open kitchen, we don’t own freezers and everything we offer is fresh and made with love,” says White, who won Food Network’s “Cooks vs. Cons” in 2016. The pair, who are partners in life and business, opened their first restaurant together in Puerto Rico in the town of Rincon.

Similar to Mangia Mi, the vibe is casual, the food is fresh, and there’s a small bar at the back of the restaurant. Unlike its sister spot, The Olive Branch offers lunch service, in addition to dinner. “There’s not a lot of places that have a more casual experience at lunch. We’re a lot more approachable, with authentic dishes like homemade pita, gyro meat, fresh salads, whole roasted fish which are prepared simple and clean.” In addition to local wines, there’s a diverse selection of Greek, German and other Mediterranean wines on offer.

[Editor’s Note: Rebecca White and Kara Keefe announced this week that the Olive Tree won’t open as planned, citing a breakdown in the deal for the space at 1350 Lincoln Ave.]

In February, NOMA House Cafe and Collective (short for “NOrth MAin’ located at 1429 Main St.) in St. Helena is slated to open in the space that was once occupied by Archetype, which closed during the pandemic. At the end of the year, founder Ann Backen hosted a popup, in collaboration with Marfa Stance, to preview what’s in store. The collective will offer globally sourced treasures, objects and furniture that reflect Backen’s (who is married to architect Howard Backen) approach to design and living, along with a café.

Downtown Napa

In other far-out news, Outer Spaces Wines opened in November to the delight of Wine Country earthlings. The retail shop and wine bar are helmed by Dan Dawson, who owned and operated the popular Back Room Wines for 17 years, after working as head sommelier at The French Laundry. Dawson’s approach for all the wines he offers are to find unique wines that “over-deliver for their price.” He features two special wines daily and hosts weekly tasting events every Friday that balance the educational and social aspects of wine tasting.

At the end of the year, Morimoto Asia opened, down the street from its original Main Street location which, in 2010, marked the opening of “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto’s first California restaurant. In addition to signature dishes including Szechuan mapo tofu and orange chicken, the menu sports dim sum, artisan cocktails and sake flights. The scene is set within a dramatic two-story waterfront space with two 9-foot terracotta warriors and dragons wrapped around the dining room pillars. To anoint the occasion, Morimoto hand-carved a giant tuna in front of a crowd.

In other openings, Zuzu, which recently celebrated its 20-year anniversary, and could easily be credited as one of the pioneers that ignited Napa’s downtown restaurant scene, recently expanded its indoor and outdoor space. Proprietor Mick Slayer started the expansion in 2017 with the opening of sister spot La Taberna (located two doors down), to bookend what he refers to as “the block party.” The latest expansion doubles the dining space at Zuzu, with Slayer’s holdings now spanning four storefronts, which include a gin-based cocktail bar, and Hank’s Takeaway, which is a quick-serve window that offers carryout from La Taberna and Zuzu, along with pantry provisions and paellas. Mainstays like the boquerónes, ceviche and gambas al ajillo live on, along with the addition of larger share plates, whole fish and expanded paella offerings. Slayer said in a release, “This expansion represents a new era of Zuzu—from the outdoor patio to our new bar, it’s a block party that’s 20 years in the making. And for locals who have fond memories of late-night drinks on the block—well, we have something special for you, if you know where to knock.”

With other openings in store, including Ray Ray’s Tacos in St. Helena and Scala Osteria in downtown (from the folks behind Bistro Don Giovanni), it’s safe to say the restaurant scene is finally back.

 

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