Table Culture Provisions

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Near the edge of downtown Petaluma stands a modest, dark-green building that might not catch the eye of some passersby. But it should.

Table Culture Provisions, a former pop-up turned posh dining space, brings the talents of seasoned chefs and co-owners Stéphane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas to the downtown dining scene. Marta Saint Louis is also an owner, and handles operations.

The chef duo cut their teeth over the years working at popular Petaluma establishments, starting in the Della Fattoria kitchen where they were introduced. Saint Louis later moved to the Shuckery where he held the title of head chef, bringing Vargas along as sous chef. Throughout their years working in local kitchens, the goal of eventual restaurant ownership was always their holy grail.

In November of 2020, they introduced Table Culture Provisions as a popup in the Petaluma Boulevard space formerly occupied by Wishbone.

While the popup’s success was an encouraging start, the team sought a better space. They landed their current spot a few minutes down the road at 841 Petaluma Blvd., with an intimate indoor dining space, open kitchen and outdoor patio seating (weather permitting.)

Saint Louis and Vargas initially served a la carte and brunch options on their menu, then started incorporating a tasting menu—when that took off, they decided to exclusively serve the tasting menu.

Inside, the atmosphere feels inviting and familiar—like visiting a friend who’s hosting you for dinner. The warmth of the space brings a sense of approachability to the comparatively upscale menu. The lights are dim, the room brightened by a small neon sign reading “TCP” hanging near the entrance.

Branzino with pomme croquette, carrot terrine and fish bone jus

Guests are offered a wine pairing with their meals, or they can opt for the sake pairings guided by on-staff sake sommelier and server Danny. My plus-one Chris and I each opt for a glass of wine on Danny’s recommendation—a fruit-forward cinsault for me, and a Macon-Fuisse for him.

First we are served a trout rillette with pearl tapioca, held by a crunchy rice shell. Alongside is Hog Island oyster with tobiko and sake beurre blanc. The richness of the white sauce is lifted by the oyster’s brine for a perfectly balanced bite.

The next dish is a filet tartare, which is mild and smooth. The accouterments add a pleasing diversity in texture, highlighted by mustard seed, fried capers, crispy kale and topped with a quail egg.

The current tasting menu offers seven courses for a total of nine dishes. The servings are well paced, allowing enough time to savor each dish and enjoy the cozy ambiance of the dining room.

Next to arrive is a matcha kohlrabi shooter–a warm, velvety soup with a light earthiness from the powdery matcha. It is served with a kohlrabi and truffled cheese “farmwich” pressata–an elevated version of the always-satisfying grilled cheese and soup combination.

Table Culture Provisions describes their fair as hyper-seasonal, as menus evolve every six to eight weeks depending on availability and quality of the season’s ingredients. Garden manager and server Bryce has been maintaining the nearby greenhouse, harvesting the edible flowers and many of the veggies used in the kitchen.

Next, Danny brings a branzino sea bass with a pomme croquette, carrot terrine and roasted fish bone jus beneath. The branzino is notably delicate—with an exceptionally crisped skin—its subtle sweetness complimented by the savory jus.

A braised oxtail sacchettini pasta follows, plated with fava beans and a peppercorn veloute sauce and Koji baby greens from the greenhouse to brighten the dish. Served with the pasta is house-baked bread and bone-marrow butter—the perfect vehicle to absorb that tasty veloute.

Dessert–Gianduja cremeaux, hazelnut praline and a noisette caramel

As the evening’s dinner service completes, Bryan presents the two-course dessert finale. First, a rhubarb sorbet atop white chocolate ganache, dotted with tart apple chips—as difficult as it is to declare a favorite of the evening, this may have been it. Last is a Gianduja cremeaux, hazelnut praline and caramel, a decadent conclusion to the meal.

As Table Culture Provisions continues to settle into its permanent Petaluma home, they continue to gain an avid local following. Their well-crafted, seasonally focused tasting menu is waking North Bay diners up to one of the best new restaurants in the region.

That modest, dark-green building should be on the radar of all Petaluma food lovers and beyond.

 

Table Culture Provisions

312 Petaluma Blvd S.

Petaluma, CA 94952

(707) 559-5739

tcprovision.com

Tasting menu: $120 per person

Tuesday through Saturday, 4 to 9 p.m.

 

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