When I started my formal culinary training in France, one of the first things I learned to make were Beurres Composes, or flavored butters. They are simple to make and can be made ahead and stored in the freezer. They are a most delicious way to complete a nicely grilled, roasted, sautéed or broiled fish, meats, pastas or vegetables. Simply place on top and let it melt over, bathing and moisturizing the hot food as you bring it to the table.
Following is the recipe for the most revered of savory flavored butters, what the French call Beurre Maitre d’Hotel, or a fresh herb and lemon butter. If you are taking them directly from the freezer you will want to soften them before using so they’ll melt easily when they hit the hot food. An easy way is to remove them from the foil and place them in a microwave at 50% power for 10 seconds or so. It can also be used to make a fast, simple and delicious “deglazing” sauce. I’ve included a recipe for that below, as well.
To make flavored butters: The Basics
It couldn’t be simpler. Soften the butter at room temperature for an hour or so and then beat with the paddle of an electric mixer. You can do it by hand, too, with a heavy wooden spoon. Beat in the flavoring ingredients until just incorporated (be sure they are cool if any of them are cooked). Cover and refrigerate for up to three days or roll into logs, wrap tightly in aluminum foil and freeze for later use. Plan to use within six months. A pound of butter may seem like a lot, but it is great to have on hand.
Maitre d’Hotel butter
1 pound softened unsalted butter
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
3/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 cup finely minced shallots or green onions
Sea or Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Beat the butter in a bowl until softened. Beat in the lemon juice a tablespoon at a time and then mix in the rest of the ingredients.
Depending on your preference, you can use the shallots raw or sauté them until soft and cool them before beating into the butter. Instead of just parsley you could also use a mixture of fresh chopped herbs of your choice such as chopped chives, parsley and/or basil.
PAN SAUTEED CHICKEN WITH HERB DEGLAZING SAUCE
Serves 4
Here I’ve used the Maitre d’Hotel butter above to make a quick deglazing sauce. This same technique can be used for anything sautéed including fish or meats.
4 skin-on, boneless chicken breast halves or 8 skin-on chicken thighs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup finely diced mushrooms
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 – 4 tablespoons Maitre d’Hotel butter, cut into bits (recipe above)
Season chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Over moderately high heat, heat the oil in a sauté pan large enough to hold the chicken in one layer without crowding. Add the chicken skin side down and cook until richly browned and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn and continue to cook until chicken is cooked through but still juicy. To tell when it’s done, prick the chicken with the point of a knife and the juices should run clear with no hints of pink.
Remove the chicken and keep warm. Pour off all but a tablespoon or so of the fat in the pan. Add the mushrooms and sauté and stir over moderately high heat until they just begin to color, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and the wine and boil stirring up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Continue to boil until liquid has reduced at least by half and is thickened, about 5 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the flavored butter which will melt and thicken the sauce. Season with salt and pepper to your taste. Spoon over chicken and serve immediately.
