The famed Sweetwater Music Hall is something of a local cultural icon in Mill Valley. In 1972, it opened in a downtown storefront, originally home to a local watering hole known as the Office. On opening night, an acoustic folk-rock group played on stage, and people lined up halfway down the block to get in. Despite its fortuitous beginning, it would take a decade before it attained its rightful place in music history. Over the years, the tiny, 90-seat tavern with a stage gained a reputation for its once-in-a-lifetime shows. The roster of artists who’ve performed there includes Jerry Garcia, Bob Weir, Huey Lewis, Carlos Santana and Sammy Hagar.
The tavern closed its doors in 2007, reopened two years later on Corte Madera Avenue, and then shuttered its doors during the pandemic. In August, Sweetwater Music Hall transformed itself once again when it opened its doors to a new restaurant on the premises—The Rock & Rye. Acclaimed Executive Chef Rick Hackett created an eclectic menu inspired by the South American recipes he discovered while traversing through Machu Picchu and Lima, Peru, as well a lasting impression of a cooking demo by the late, great Chef Paul Prudhomme of New Orleans.
Alex and I arrive on a Thursday in late summer. The Rock & Rye is a classic café with indoor-outdoor dining options. Since it was a beautiful mild evening, we opted to dine alfresco under the lights on the patio, which has been remodeled and weatherproofed for guests. Our server for the evening is Melissa Finn who recommends two craft cocktails that are popular with the patrons. The Feel More, a concoction of tequila reposado and mezcal infused with pineapple, jalapeño, ginger, lime juice and cilantro, is slightly spicy and an elevated take on a margarita. And the light dusting of roasted chili salt on the rim gives it a lot of character. We also tried Sweetwater’s The Rock & Rye, a signature drink with a classic American libation. If you enjoy rye whiskey, this is one to try.
At Finn’s recommendation, we begin with two starters that are popular with their patrons. The deviled eggs with pickled jalapeño are topped with a thin slice of smoked salmon—delicate tasty bites with an explosion of flavor. We also tried the corn-cheddar-jalapeño muffin with honey butter. Made from scratch, it’s so dense and hearty you might share one, though I promise you may regret it after the first bite.
A longtime fan of Creole cuisine, I opted for the shellfish gumbo for an entrée. If there is a food that immediately transports me to New Orleans, it’s a good steaming bowl of Creole gumbo. It’s one of life’s cherished pleasures and emblematic of Louisiana, and I highly recommend enjoying it with a muffin of your own. This is a delicious, soul-satisfying bowl of goodness with earthy complex flavors.
Alex enjoyed the steak frites (steak and fries) with chimichurri steak sauce. A hearty plate of food, the origins of this dish trace back to France and Belgium, and it’s a mainstay in the cuisine of both countries. The chimichurri sauce, made with finely chopped herbs, garlic oil and vinegar, takes it up a notch, giving the dish a fresh, garlicky, tangy taste. This is an exceptional dish, and Alex was in love at first bite.
If you’re looking for vegetarian options—or even if you’re not—check out the “veggies” section on the menu. The forest mushrooms and grits with roasted shallots and spicy tomato sauce are comfort food at its best. Served in a bowl, there’s a generous lush, creamy pillow of grits on which rest a generous portion of savory, meaty mushrooms and shallots in a spicy tomato sauce. I highly recommend pairing it with a side of the collard greens, cooked al dente and served Brazilian-style.
We’d planned to pass on dessert, but we were enticed by the sweet potato cheesecake with salted caramel sauce. We shared a slice and marveled over its decadent, light texture. Simply superb, it was the perfect end to an exquisite meal.
Next time you’re in Mill Valley, stop by The Rock & Rye. There’s live music on the patio every weekend from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Or, make plans for dinner and a show. Check out the lineup of artists scheduled to perform this autumn at sweetwatermusichall.com. And while you’re there, here’s hoping you witness one of Sweetwater’s famed once-in-a-lifetime shows.
At A Glance
Fare: South American~New Orleans-inspired Cuisine
Address: 19 Corte Madera Ave., Mill Valley, Calif. 94941
Phone: (415) 388-3850
Open Weekdays at 11:30 a.m.
Monday—Wednesday: Last seating at 8 p.m.
Thursday—Friday: Last seating at 9 p.m.
Open Weekends at 10:30 a.m.
Saturday: Closes at 9 p.m.
Sunday: Closes at 8 p.m.
(Brunch Service—10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.)
Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Entrees: $16—$23
[Photos courtesy of The Rock & Rye at Sweetwater Music Hall]
[Cocktail photos by Josh Miller]
