As the family story goes, the restaurant was opened around 1936 by Santi and Virginia Catelli, mostly out of practical need. “My grandfather was a bootlegger during Prohibition,” says Nicholas Catelli. “He was in jail and my grandmother [Virginia] bailed him out. She was pregnant with my father at the time.” Virginia was a strong woman, the rock of the family and an excellent cook. Santi was the man around town everyone knew.
Originally, the restaurant was named The Rex because a sign maker already had a sign with the name on it. Virginia and Santi rolled with the name, which translates to “king” in Latin, but “Catelli’s” was added when the couple had the money to make the change. Their son, Richard, grew up in the family business. As a young man, he took a brief hiatus and then returned full time to run it in the mid-1960s when Santi became ill. In the mid-1990s, the restaurant closed. In 2010, Catelli’s was reopened for business by the third generation—Nicholas, and his sister, Domenica, who helms the kitchen. Nicholas and Domenica breathed new life into it with a menu that gives a nod to the treasured family dishes once served there. Because Virginia didn’t write her recipes down, Domenica has recreated many of them from memory, including the minestrone soup, ravioli meat filling and salad dressings. Catelli’s also features some classic Italian favorites, transformed with a healthier, modern twist, thanks to Domenica’s passion for fresh, organic ingredients.
Alex and I venture there early one Sunday evening and at first glance, downtown Geyserville (population 765) appears to be a quiet, sleepy hamlet. As soon as I stepped inside, I knew we were about to experience something special. The place was humming with business.
Domenica and Nicholas are there to greet guests and oversee the daily operations of the business. We’re seated at a table for two, near the front window. Our server for the evening is Carissa Contreras, who’s been working there for three years. We begin with cocktails and two signature starters. The burrata and prosciutto are a masterpiece and Catelli’s most popular appetizer. Served on a board with grilled bread, there’s a mound of burrata cheese doused with a generous puddle of olive oil, prosciutto and fresh arugula. Ideal for sharing, the best way to enjoy it is to simply dig in—spread the cheese on the bread, top it with the prosciutto and arugula and enjoy every savory, delicious bite. The meatball sliders are made with beef and house-made spicy pork sausage and served on a delicate, soft potato bun. Melt-in-your-mouth good, with a touch of heat, it’s also a popular item on the menu.
Next, we enjoy a kale salad, a nod to the influence of Chef Domenica, who introduced it on the menu in 2010. Bright and fresh, this is an artful combination that includes shredded organic kale, orange, pecans, crushed croutons, parmesan and olive oil. A generous plate of food, there’s plenty to share and so delicious, you’ll forget it’s good for you, too.
For entrees, we enjoy the 10-layer lasagna, made with three types of cheese—Bellweather farms ricotta, Laura Chenel goat cheese and parmesan. The pasta is light and delicate, and we ordered it with Domenica’s sauce, a simple vegetarian version, but it can also be ordered with what’s known there as Richard’s meat sauce. We also enjoy the chicken piccata, made with Petaluma Rocky chicken thighs, sautéed with garlic, white wine, capers. Savory and delicious, it’s served with greens and polenta.
What makes a restaurant iconic is not only the food but the experience it offers its clientele. Catelli’s is a family business with a profound heartbeat that’s managed to carry on the traditions of Virginia and Santi for nearly a century. “What people should know is that we’re not trying to be fancy,” says Nicholas. “It’s a Geyserville restaurant for folks to come and experience family moments—birthdays, anniversaries, celebrations,” he says.
“That’s the family motto: Food, family and fun,” adds Anna Catelli, Nicholas’ wife, who’s also hands-on in the business.
What might Virginia think if she knew people were still patronizing the restaurant she helped found? “No one has ever asked me that,” says Domenica. Overcome with emotion, she takes a moment to respond. “She’d be excited and thrilled,” she says. “And she’d be proud of us.”
Catelli’s Restaurant
Fare: Italian Cuisine
Address: 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, Calif. 95441
Phone: (707) 857-3471
Website: mycatellis.com
Hours: Open Wednesday—Sunday; 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Beverages: Wine/Beer/Cocktails
Entrees: $18.50—$39.25
[Brendan McGuigan Photography]
