Founded in 1870, Guerneville was mostly a remote logging town in the Russian River Valley, and a successful mill bolstered its growth. During the early 1900s, it became a popular getaway destination for San Franciscans, who traveled by ferry and train to visit. Guerneville’s towering redwoods, the flow of the Russian River and the tranquil peacefulness of this charming hamlet were part of the magic and draw that remains to this day, more than a century later. In April, Stavrand Russian River Valley made Travel + Leisure’s “It List” of 100 Best New Hotels, featuring hotels and resorts throughout the world.
Located along a bucolic country road, the Stavrand is nestled on six acres, and the property includes the Belden House, a registered Sonoma Historic Landmark. The home was originally owned by Ralph Belden, the president of the Guerneville Bank and a gentleman farmer, known around town as “Rooster.” He and his wife, Gretchen, known as “Pet,” and their son, John “Bunny” Belden, was captivated by the area and the property’s 60-acre apple ranch in the early 1920s. In 1922, the couple commissioned a prominent Bay Area architect, John Carl Warnecke, to design their home. In 1985, the property was sold and turned into a hotel, and over the years, two other owners have operated the property. Then in the midst of the pandemic in 2020, it was purchased by hotelier Emily Glick along with her family, and guest service aficionado Santiago Ripley and his wife. The resort’s name is a nod to Glick’s late mother, Maribeth Stavrand, and her parents, Grace and Erik Stavrand, who once operated a lodge in Vermont.
On a cool spring evening, Alex and I venture there to enjoy the private dining experience offered to its guests. When we arrive, we’re greeted by Glick, who gives us a tour. We take a walk in Rooster’s meadow—now known as the Chef’s Meadow—a velvety sea of green with fruit-bearing trees and a blissful step back to a bygone era. Executive Chef Jeremy Clemens and crew pick fresh apples, figs and pears for the kitchen, and guests are welcome to pluck an apple or fig to enjoy as they stroll through.
As Glick escorts us inside the resort for dinner, we encounter a deer in the distance that considers us thoughtfully for a moment, as if greeting us. Inside, we’re seated at a table fireside. We ask Glick about making Travel + Leisure’s “It List” and she admits it was quite a surprise. “We try to be the best inn, boutique hotel and resort, all folded into one,” she says with a smile.
Guests of the Stavrand are offered a three- to the five-course pre-fixe menu for dinner, which changes daily and includes wine pairings. We begin with two glasses of a 2020 Tendu Vermentino, organic wine with bright citrus notes. While we’re sipping our vino, our server, Danielle, delivers a surprise amouse-bouche, which in French means to “amuse the mouth.” On this day, it’s a warm, luscious beet perfectly cooked with a sprinkle of seven-spice chili and topped with a sprig of mizuna, a dark, leafy green with a mild peppery taste.
As we enjoy the flicker of the fireplace, the first course arrives—charred asparagus with smoked Mt. Lassen trout, a faux “Hollandaise” foam and everything spice. Beautifully presented, this is spring on a plate with a savory smoky flavor and the attention to detail is inventive. Thinly-sliced bites of trout top the spears with bits folded into the foam and the sprinkle of spice is just right.
Soon after, we enjoy another surprise from the kitchen—pork dumplings in a burnt onion broth—a mouthwatering dish with a touch of fresh ginger. For the main course, we enjoy the Pappardelle with pesto, Bellweather ricotta and Chili Bomba, along with a glass of 2021 Pinot Gris from Jolie Laide in Healdsburg. A hearty plate of pasta, it’s delicious and soul-satisfying.
Dining at Stavrand is much like dining at a friend’s home in the countryside. Though Chef Jeremy helms the kitchen with chefs Elijah Trujillo and Kazuya Makishima, he is hands-on, delivering plated food and stopping to talk with a guest who is dining alone and asks about the area. Food is art and great care is taken with each ingredient. Classically trained at Hudson Campus in New York, Chef Jeremy likes to honor the ingredients. “I like to showcase the food and let the produce speak to us,” he says. “Food should be fun—we pay attention to details and showcase the farmers’ beautiful produce.”
Stavrand offers a dining experience that’s refined, yet casual and the food is exquisite, and also inventive, playful and fun. For dessert, we enjoy a sweet treat from Pastry Chef Kayla Hendrix— pain d’épices (loosely translated in French for “spice bread”) with peanut buttercream and strawberry jam sorbet. More simply described as the PB&J, I admit this one appealed to my inner child and we devoured it.
If you’re looking to plan a getaway, book a reservation at Stavrand and see why this charming hamlet has been drawing San Franciscans for more than a century. Be sure to wander into the meadow and walk the grounds that first captivated the Belden family.
The Stavrand Russian River Valley
Address: 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville, Calif. 95446
Phone: (707) 869-9093
Reservations: hosts@thestavrand.com
Fare: Refined Casual Cuisine
Price: Private Dining $105—$165/Per Guest with Wine Pairings
