Malibu Farm is about a lot more than the view. But let’s start there because, well, it’s quite a view. Angel Island, the San Francisco skyline, boats ferrying to and fro—it’s all part of
the experience at Malibu Farm Tiburon, the newest in the small-but-growing restaurant chain that originated on the Malibu Pier in L.A.
Malibu Farm restaurants—other locations include Newport Beach, New York, Lanai and, opening soon, San Diego—are typically situated along waterfronts and marinas, serving up feasts for the eyes and feasts for the table in equal portion. They use fresh, natural ingredients—local and small-farmed when possible—and “no fake food,” in the words of founder/chef Helene Henderson, even drawing the line at non-fat products. “Eat the real thing, or don’t eat it all,” Henderson advises at malibu-farm.com.
Like its SoCo counterpart, which launched in 2014, MF Tiburon is paired with a street-facing café/retail space, with the restaurant set back along the Tiburon ferry pier—on our recent weekday visit, that’s where the action was.
The main dining is on the building’s second level, where the ample space is practically one large deck—half under ceiling and half in the open air, everywhere with eye-drawing views. On our visit, we enjoyed a table at the edge of the deck, overlooking the storied Tiburon docks that a century ago served as the bridge between rum-running barges and secret doors into Main Street speakeasies; Al Capone allegedly polished off a final whisky a few doors down before ferrying to a five-year stint on “The Rock.”
With Prohibition thankfully in the rear-view, we kicked things off with a couple of craft drinks from a house menu leaning heavily into tequila, vodka and agave. The house drinks ($16 each) are labeled with single-word descriptors—Watermelon, Tomato, Apricot, etc.—named for their primary flavor, but with diverse sets of ingredients rendering each a tasty concoction unto its own. The Jalapeno mixes tequila with jalapeno agave and lime and delivers a welcome, spicy kick (thanks in no small part to a slice of jalapeno floating atop). The Smoke, meanwhile, takes its name from the smoked chipotle salt that lines its glass of mezcal, lime and agave.
With appetites officially whetted, we started with a grilled peach and burrata salad ($18), which pitted the peppery taste of arugula greens against the sweetness of grilled peaches and candied pecan, with pickled onions thrown in to wake up the tastebuds—a refreshing summer salad highlighted by creamy burrata that mixed perfectly with the accompanying sherry vinaigrette. From the “Bites” menu, we sampled the Bahn ‘Bu lettuce cups ($27)—this recommendable starter features a savory Korean chili paste and cuts of pork belly (think thick bacon) that combine for a powerful zesty flavor, nicely tempered by the cool leafy wraps. A great dish for sharing.
Speaking of sharing, Malibu Farm also offers a menu of pizzas, all with enticing ingredients—from avocado to smoked salmon to barbecued corn ($21 to $26).
The Malibu Farm building was the longtime home of Servino Ristorante, a family-owned Italian spot that had been on Main Street since 1999. Servino’s decision to return to its original location along the town’s Ark Row opened the door to Malibu Farm’s opening this past spring—with remodeled dining areas that turned what had been a somewhat dark-wood, low-lighted interior into a bright, open-air space that more fully utilizes the site’s greatest asset: it’s situation at the edge of the bay. And, while locals are no doubt familiar with how temperatures can turn along the nearby waterfronts—even as dusk drew in and the sea breezes began flowing, MFT’s multiple deck-area heat lamps kept the evening on a warm and cozy keel as our entrees of Hanger Steak ($45) and Crispy Skin King Salmon ($38) arrived.
The steak was sublime—sliced, tender and cooked to medium by request, the generous cut was served in a smoky chimichurri sauce, accompanied by grilled asparagus, roasted potatoes and mustard greens. (Hint: Allocate some of the sauce to the veggies—it’s really good.) The salmon, meanwhile, made a similarly mouthwatering impact at our table. The dish is served with a light Meyer lemon vinaigrette, which lent a sweet floral note and paired well with petite orange wedges and shaved fennel that surrounded the buttery fish; herb-sprinkled potatoes and roasted cauliflower rounded out the tasty plate. A grilled chocolate cake, a la mode with drizzles of caramel, topped the evening off with a bit of decadence.
The Tiburon waterfront is one of the bay’s true arcadias—the temperate climate and long seascapes are nearly unbeatable within the 415. Yet, whether through structural logistics or lack of effort, many of the downtown restaurants never take full advantage of the location. Malibu Farm, however, is using its scenic advantage as a foundation to build upon—with attentive service, a creative menu and a superlative kitchen, its latest venture might soon be considered one of the best restaurants in southern Marin, if it isn’t already.
Had Al Capone had been headed to the clink today, he’d probably throw back a Smoke in agreement.
Malibu Farm Tiburon
9 Main St., Tiburon
628-226-1222
private events: tiburonevents@malibu-farm.com
Thursday to Monday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.; 5 to 9 p.m.
Check out the menu at malibu-farm.com/tiburon
